Perfect Gentleman

Derek Rose On Mr. Porter

2011-12-27T23:52:00.001+02:00

Derek Rose Lightweight Cotton Bathrobe £224.12

This post can easily go one of two ways; either it'll look out of place on this blog and more suited on Flawless Crowns or, the name Derrick Rose is beguiling enough to conjure up thoughts of the $94 million guard of the Chicago Bulls. I have been reading quite a fair amount about the website Mr. Porter, and while searching for some velvet slippers the first link I clicked led to Mr. Porter. Then my search directed me to these beautiful dressing gowns and bathrobes by British design house Derek Rose.

Derek Robe Towelling Bathrobe £109

I had to quickly make the distinction and deduced that this is not the Derek Rose I'm thinking of. However, I couldn't help but feel attracted to these gowns and bathrobes. I like the fact that the price points go from affordable to high end, making them accessible to all kinds of gents. Believe me, even for a South African, I can definitely afford the bathrobes within the £100 range. I often ask myself the question why most of these stylish gentleman obsess about their appearance even at home on a weekend. It's because our clothing and style can be very functional, comfortable and stylish at the same time.

Derek Robe Towelling Bathrobe £108.68

So, as we head into the new year consider a more stylish wardrobe in as far as loungewear and nightwear is concerned. This isn't only a mandate for you, it applies to me as well.

Derek Rose Cashmere Dressing Gown £2, 933. 33

A little bit about Derek Rose with reference to the gowns and robes, taken from Mr. Porter: DEREK ROSE is a family business, based on Savile Row in London, specialising in top-quality nightwear and loungewear. Only the finest materials are used, and all patterns and textiles are designed in-house. Over the years Derek Rose has supplied royalty, film stars and music legends. The right pyjamas can imbue the wearer with a timeless masculine elegance. Plus, it is always worth looking good at night – you never know when the fire alarm will go off.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Pastor Said Not To Wear A Necktie

2011-12-25T23:26:00.001+02:00

For our Christmas service at our church, we were instructed to dress down. Smart-casual was the memo. And it was stated quite emphatically that no necktie necessary for the gents. I opted, therefore, for this combination of a cotton shirt, no...it's not denim, and this black, two-button linen jacket. A talking point in the past two weeks, however, has been this Polo button on the lapel. When I relayed the story to a friend of mine, at a wedding two weeks ago, that I retrieved the button from a pair of soft leather Polo shoes that I threw out after wearing them to death, he just simply laughed. After making the decision to throw the shoes out I decided to cut out the Polo buttons because I deemed them serviceable, especially at a later stage. Fast forward to the past two weeks, and I've managed to use them as lapel decorations on my jackets. As minute as they may appear, they are both visually arresting and a great talking point. The first question has been, "now where in the world did you get the Polo button?" The answer, naturally, has been met with incredulous guffaws and stares. This is definitely my latest obsession in sartorial quirks. I'm trying to personalise this style of mine, and I'm learning and loving every minue of it. Merry and blessed Christmas, everybody. Now for that Magic, Thunder game.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Last Minute Christmas Shopping For Him: Panama Hat

2011-12-21T23:58:00.004+02:00

Deventio Men's Panama Hat R499

If you're looking for the perfect headgear for summer, whether for yourself, another gentleman, or trying to guide your significant other in the right direction, then this panama hat is the best item your Christmas bonus can buy. I can't think of a more stylish item to protect and cover your head with than this panama obtainable from Cape Union Mart. Available in a cream shade it is the best complement to most summer outfits; whether dressed up or dressed down, this panama hat is the perfect accessory. A panama offers a gentleman a great opportunity to achieve a distinctive elegance, and even though a first time wearer will feel self-conscious, over time the hat will feel natural. So, to the beach, a braai, an afternoon at the upcoming cricket or the Hazelmere Dam Jazz festival, you're covered, literally. This is a wise choice especially because it is essential, functional and stylish.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Shorts And How To Wear Them

2011-12-19T18:22:00.000+02:00

There is no better time to experiment with different types of garments like in summer. This presents you with the opportunity to try certain looks and combinations. One such combination has always been shorts with a jacket. Because it is a look I avoided in the past, I felt compelled to try it this time because I want to dispel the notion that shorts only belong with a t-shirt. Summer style in this part of the world can be so slovenly because of the unbearable heat and humidity. But like I was saying to someone, about a month ago, we shouldn't resign ourselves to mundane and sometimes unkempt looks just because it's summer. There are stylish options, and as always one needn't break the bank.

Everyone of my South African readers knows a clothing retail chain known as Meltz. Well, that's where I purchased these khaki shorts by GAP. If you're looking for shorts, right now, then you should head on over to your nearest MELTZ and I guarantee you will find a pair. Long time readers will know that I lionize above the knee shorts, any day, all day. Especially as a 33 year old. I assure you that you will not see me in a pair of shorts that go below the knee; unless they are basketball shorts and I'm on my way to the gym. If these shorts had been any longer, even hitting just at the knee, I would've had them tailored and shortened.

It's a casual outfit therefore this brown leather D-ring belt is apt. A grey and blue striped, one button jacket from Fashion Fusion is complemetary, especially because of its seemingly cropped look. It proportions exceptionally well with the shorts. The footwear is a pair of two-tone (chocolate brown and black) kiltie/ tassel loafers.

With this look I decided to keep the khaki shorts and then added a blue and white striped shirt, and this navy blue, double breasted jacket with gold buttons. In hindsight I feel I should've gone with white or striped espadrilles, and not brown horse-bit loafers. Just so as to keep the nautical theme going.

As much as this is a beach look. I can't go in the water in these shorts because they aren't for swimming. Derived from an erstwhile pair of trousers, these are my first ever above the knee pair of shorts. I could definitely attend a beach party or soiree on a yacht in this outfit. The low neckline of the t-shirt almost precludes the wearing of said t-shirt anywhere else except the beach or other similar milieus.

The Natural Aristocrat and Kleidsam will remember this double breasted seersucker jacket. They made it known that I had unearthed a gem. I had it fixed, adjusted, had the sleeves let out, and dry cleaned. A piece thrifted for R10, it was definitely a bargain.

I deceided to pair these two separate pieces together because of their similar fabric; cotton. The shorts by Dockers are the shortest I have. It's funny that almost a year ago I couldn't even fit in them because of some careless weight gain. Now they zip and fasten mellifluously. I paired this casual, unconstructed, unlined jacket with these shorts because of their faded navy blue shade. And since it came out well, a suit comprising shorts and a jacket shouldn't be too far behind.

I think for someone who lives in a coastal city, the more nautical my summer footwear, the better. I can't help but feel that I may have erred with these brown loafers. It seems that espadrilles or boat shoes would've been right and exact.

Finally, it would be egregiously remiss of me to not represent my sandals wearing brothers. From the old school to the new, sandals are a footwear staple in most men's wardrobes. Take a walk around Durban and you're sure to find sandals on a lot of men's feet. Even the traditional Zulu sandals are a feature. Tucking the golfer/ polo in is a stylish secret privy to us all.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

A Case For Poly Viscose

2011-12-15T17:21:00.000+02:00

I've heard it all before. Fabrics ideal for summer so as to survive the heat are cotton, linen, poplin, seersucker and some lightweight wool. What I've never heard mentioned is polyviscose. In my humble opinion, it is a front runner in the summer beaters category. Mind you, my experience with this fabric thus far has been unintentional and unwitting. I never knew when I purchased the above pictured trousers that they were in a polyviscose blend. All I knew was that they fit very well, draped accordingly and incredibly breathable.

Polyviscose is a rayon fabric made from cellulose ester (obtained by treating cellulose with caustic soda). Viscose fabrics have a silky to matte luster with a elegant flowing drape. The natural effect of the colours gives them an attractive look. Viscose is supple and has a softness that is comfortable to wear. As they can absorb perspiration quite quickly, it makes them very skin friendly, but with poor thermal properties.

Because polyester has a reputation as a cantankerous fabric; not friendly on the skin, heavy and slippery as well (something I can attest to), I find that when blended with other fabrics, polyester has ameliorated. Even the feel and look has improved.

I've come to enjoy and respect this fabric, because of its functional qualities and the fact that it doesn't wrinkle. In the absence of linen, poplin, seersucker and the ilk, polyviscose has filled the void functionally and aesthetically.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Pleats And Cuff Debate

2011-12-13T23:35:00.001+02:00

I was having a conversation with a close friend of mine, not so long ago, when he relayed to his fiancee that I wear pleated trousers with no cuff, or turn-ups as we South Africans call them. Upon hearing this assertion I immediately deduced that he was inferring that I might be trangressing a sartorial rule. A rule, it appears, I have been trangressing for the longest time. On the surface trousers with pleats should be complemented by cuffs, conversely, flat front trousers generally shouldn't have a cuff. However, times change, rules are broken and fashion has evolved into personal and subjective extensions. This has culminated in pleated trousers without cuffs, and flat front trousers with cuffs. As egregious as this may seem there is allowance for both styles to co-exist interchangeably, on one garment, too.

A transient dive into the history of cuffs reveals that cuffs are of Anglo-American origin; while the origin of flat front trousers are considered continental European. As subjective and personal style can be it is important that adherence to sartorial rules occurs, because the discerning eye privy to such seemingly indispensable details will know that the mixing of these two styles should be executed with caution. Cuffs with flat front trousers can be worn quite well. We should, therefore, be disabused from the notion that flat front trousers shouldn't have cuffs and pleated trousers should have. A learning point for me lies in the fact that a middle ground exists wherein single pleat trousers are considered versatile and can accommodate cuffs or not.

Another rule to be cognizant of is the functionality of pleats. Pleats are there to facilitate a fuller shape, and since cuffs add weight to the bottom of trousers they make pleats stand out. What about suits? I may have erred on this one too. In my estimation, since a suit is considered formal and conservative, it follows that pleated suit pants should have a cuff and suit pants without pleats shouldn't have cuffs. This makes sense especially when considering the overall aesthetic which includes the cut of the suit. Winter weights such as flannels, tweeds, worsted wools are handsomely complemented by cuffs. Summer weights such as linens, tropical wools, cottons, should be straight with a taper. You will find that even summer footwear is accommodated by the tapered trousers. Generally, cuffed trousers will have a single break and the uncuffed will have a slight or no break at all.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Kiltie Loafers

2011-12-08T12:53:00.001+02:00

It would appear that men's loafers have evolved so much over the years, that said evolution has precipitated the demise of kiltie loafers. The original kiltie loafers with a kiltie acoss the the vamp of a shoe sans tassels, I just don't see them anymore. My interest lies in the fact that my father wore a pair of black kiltie loafers in the eighties, both formally and casually. Everytime I'm home I always see a picture of him in white trousers, sky blue socks, a red and navy blue raglan sleeve sweater and said black kiltie loafers. What appeals mostly to me is the rounded toe of the shoes that borders on a pointy toe; far from the above image of a visibly broad rounded toe. It's still a kiltie loafer nonetheless. My go to ensemble includes shorts, however, in jeans or trousers the leg opening should be tapered for greater display of the shoes. I'm still on the lookout for a pair which espouses all the features that my father's had, for now however, I'll just sit and wait expectantly.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Wordsworth With MaXhosa By Laduma Knitwear

2011-12-05T16:15:00.003+02:00

Astrid Arndt photography

This is a proudly South African moment for me. Having first encountered Laduma Ngxokolo in the July/ August issue of GQ SA, I have made many attempts to get in touch with him. Finally, we started conversing and I have managed to pick his brain on his innovative knitwear. Needless to say, he has taken the South African fashion industry by storm because his garments and designs are a confluence of modern styling and traditional Xhosa aesthetics. His foray into Xhosa inspired knitwear is as a result of the disconnect he discerned between producing high quality knitwear for Xhosa men and the fact that said knitwear has to be imported. Ngxokolo had young Xhosa men, who go through the rite of passage of circumcision, in mind when he designed his range. He states quite matter-of-factly that "I concentrate on the celebration side of the ritual. After a man is initiated, he gets a whole new wardrobe. I created my range with them in mind."

Ross Adami photography

Having also been the recipient of the prestigious Society and Colourists' 2010 Design Award, MaXhosa sold out at the Design Indaba, and also looks set for inroads into the international scene. Innovative, precocious, eloquent, studious and self-deprecating; in a Perfect Gentleman SA first, it gives me great pleasure to present to you an interview with MaXhosa knitwear founder and designer, Laduma Ngxokolo.

Simon Deiner photography

Q: What is the main inspiration behind Maxhosa knitwear?

During the 2010 Soccer World Cup a collection of traditional Xhosa beadwork dating back to the 1800’s was exhibited in the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum in PE. When I saw this collection I just knew it would be the ultimate solution for my 2010 BTech research I was doing at the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University at the time. My mission was to develop a range of Xhosa-inspired men’s knitwear for Xhosa initiates to substitute the knitwear styles they are currently wearing for their Xhosa initiation ritual, which bear no resemblance of Xhosa tradition. So in a nutshell, MaXhosa knitwear is inspired by the patterns, hues and the particular colour schemes used in traditional Xhosa beadwork.

Q: Take us through the entire process when making one of your garments?

My design process starts from sourcing inspiration then developing motifs which I will turn into knitwear patterns after that I source mohair and wool yarn locally, knitting up fabric panels to test aesthetics and then produce the final piece.

Q: How have your garments been received in South Africa? Conversely, how have they been received internationally?

My knitwear was very well received in South Africa from all types of race and culture group, I think that was because everyone could somehow relate to the designs because they know where they are rooted and I was obviously there to explain in detail. The collection is at least beginning to draw attention internationally and so far it has surprised many who saw the designs and they can relate to the designs as well because it is something they haven’t seen before.

Simon Deiner

Q: You are a strong proponent of buying and supporting local, why is it to important to buy and support local?

The South African textile and fashion manufacturing industry is going through a difficult time every year, tons of jobs are lost when big companies liquidate. With that being said I think it is important for us South African designers to establish distinctive authentic products that can be produced locally, using the resources that are available locally, in my case mohair wool, to create sustainable projects that will not be taken away from us.

Q: What garments comprise Maxhosa knitwear right now?

We’ve got cardigans, pullovers, shawl collar jerseys, v-neck and crewneck jerseys.

Simon Deiner

Q: Do you plan on expanding into accessories, like scarves, beanies, etc?

For now we’re just specialising in men’s knitwear, but as time passes we would love to stretch the concept to other clothing items like shirts, pants, jackets and even interior accessories.

Simon Deiner

Q: Men's clothing is expensive in South Africa. What is the price range of your knitwear?

Because the style of my knitwear is quite extravagant, the price range of my collection is between R950 – R2500.

Q: What is your ultimate mission and vision for the future regarding Maxhosa knitwear by Laduma Ngxokolo?

My ultimate long term vision is to establish MaXhosa by Laduma as a premium quality heritage brand that can sell on the local and international market for the next decades.

Simon Deiner

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Game Recognise Game: Perfect Gentleman SA In Cleo Magazine

2011-12-02T11:07:00.000+02:00

Seriously this, for me, came out of left field. I remember reading an article about how Elton Brand came to the Chicago Bulls after Michael Jordan had retired, the second time; and how this was equal to him arriving after the show, the hotel lobby, and the after-party. This is just how I felt after seeing and reading an article by Maque Degorgeous wherein this blog was mentioned as one of his top 10 blogs. It just so happened that maybe a month and a half ago I had taken my niece to the doctor and while waiting for the doctor to arrive I reached for a Cleo magazine. All the other magazines seemed boring. This one stood out because it had good-girl-turned-bad, Rihanna, on the cover, and that I had never browsed an issue. So as I got to perusing, reading, gleening, I missed a part on the cover where it stated that this was the blogger's issue. As I continued to read I noticed a thick section within the magazine about anything and everything related to blogging. I had to stop, read and absorb. I'm a blogger after all. Towards the end of the supplement there it was, in bold letters "The 10 Blogs: that all fashionistas should visit." I seriously, literally, had to take a moment to soak it all in. I was incredulous; my blog in a magazine? An internationally recognised magazine no-less. I was totally blown away. What started off as a labour of love is starting to morph into a precocious child worthy of some recognition. So, this is my thank you. Thanks to Cleo magazine, Maque Degorgeous, and everyone else who has started to read and follow this blog after this particular mention. You may ask yourself about the Elton Brand analogy; this particular Cleo magazine was an issue from June/ July. I only came across this particular article some time in October, after all the hype had dissipated but the love very much abounds.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

From The Blackpool Of Style: Amen

2011-11-26T17:29:00.001+02:00

This post is a long time coming. The SABC has been grappling with financial woes for the past 3 years. Consequently, this has left the corporation in a bad way, so much so that its programming has become redundant and desultory. Honestly, I don't know why I have to pay my TV license when two episodes of Everybody Hates Chris are foisted on me twice a week. One is enough, really. But then again as the viewing audience what do we expect from a corporation that made losses totaling R910 million in one financial year. Word is, there is some semblance of financial improvement. I'll believe it, however, when I see it. Which means the programming must once again be attractive, interesting and consistent. Just because there's talk of improvement, especially in its finances, doesn't mean that success is fait accompli.

I'm sure everyone remembers TV shows such as Good Times, 227, Diff'rent Strokes, The Jefferson's, Sanford and Son, The Cosby Show, ADifferent World, etc. These are all shows I grew up on. Some were first aired in the 70s, however, I got a taste of them in the 80s. The SABC's programming was pretty much satisfactory in those days, even though media freedom was fettered and to an extent controlled. In its impecunious state the present day SABC literally went for broke and brought us AMEN! Twice a week, from 11:30 am to 12pm, we are treated to half an hour of wit, humour and sartorial brilliance. The cast and acting aside, this show is probably the most sartorially stimulating I have ever witnessed. The wardrobe is nothing short of impeccable and indelible. The main character and star of the show is Sherman Hemsley. Yes, the one and only 'Mr. Jefferson' from 'The Jefferson's'. In this role he plays the character of Ernest Frye, church deacon, shrewd lawyer, single father, cunning friend, austere father-in-law, serial seducer, and an all round funny guy. Mr. Hemsley's transition from George Jefferson to deacon Frye is so mellifluous, as if this and other roles he's played were tailor made for him. Even though the show is set around the First Community Church of Philadelphia, it doesn't come off as preachy or pious. In fact, in as much as there are scenes shot inside the church, actual church service scenes are very sparse.

The show also stars Clifton Davis who plays the moral and upright Reverend Reuben Gregory. A young and likeable Anna Maria Horsford playing the role of Thelma Frye, daughter to deacon Frye, and later, Reuben’s love interest. A pair of loud, chattering sisters is played by Roz Ryan (you may remember her as Anthony Anderson’s mother on ‘All About the Anderson’s) and Barbara Montgomery. They play Amelia and Cassietta Hetebrink, respectively. They are always on hand to help with church matters and also proffer relationship advice to Thelma whenever she is in need. The incisive, reasonable and stoic Rolly Forbes is played by Jester Hairston. Already a senior citizen in the show, he is a beacon of equanimity whenever the whole crew is faced with a stressful situation. A perpetually sharp and smart dresser, you will never see him without a pocket square, it forms an integral part of his attire. In my book, he is my pick for best dressed on the show.

Sartorially the wardrobe seems to be well arranged and each male character has his own unique style. Rolly Forbes is always in a single breasted suit, if not a three piece; well proportioned and balanced. The reverend Gregory has a penchant for mixing and matching. He hardly wears a suit, but prefers rather to mix sport jackets with trousers and then accessorise appropriately with a tie and pocket handkerchief. Because he is always visiting the Frye’s at their home there are many scenes where he is entering or leaving, therefore a trench coat or some form of overcoat is always utilised. In as far as the deacon is concerned; the character straddles deacon and attorney quite deftly. Maybe as a sign of the times he has a particular interest in double breasted suits, the 6x2 kind. This, I surmise, denotes his position of power, both in the church and professionally. He also dabbles in mixing and matching, albeit rare.

There is a scene where they wore tuxedos and the attire was on point; replete with white folded pocket squares and boutonnieres. Another scene depicted them as high rollers attending a live show featuring one of their own, Amelia Hetebrink. Set in a night club, deacon Frye was in a top coat with a fur collar, white french cuff shirt, a hat, and an ebullient pocket handkerchief.

The show also features prominent black actors and actresses in cameo roles, all of them having a thing or two to do with the Frye’s and their close circle. One character with a recurring role is the Reverend Didymo, played by Eric Christmas, who also played Father Francis on Days of our Lives (talk about being typecast). He plays the gullible reverend Didymo who always falls victim to the deacon’s scheming which results in them landing in precarious situations. RichardRoundtree also features playing a strict, abrasive and steely army drill sergeant. When reverend Gregory is perpetually undecided about marrying Thelma, especially after he faints at the altar just before saying ‘I do’, Thelma bolts for the army in order to forget about him, his inveterate indecisiveness and nurse her broken heart. Needless to say, Thelma and the drill sergeant butt heads on more than one occasion, to the chagrin of her father and fiancé. Their attempts at intervening in the situation, however, fall through even when they disguise themselves as women coming to Thelma’s rescue. More cameos can be evinced in the pictures below.

There’s something I lionize with the Thelma character; it is the consistency in her inflection. This can be found in a myriad of roles Horsford has played over her acting career. And only the ‘pious’ reverend Gregory manages to be impervious to the mawkish advances of a lovesick Thelma, during their courtship and marriage. This is something natural in her voice, but I feel that she is able to use it in such a way that the characters she plays are believable and honest.

The recycling of actors or actresses in the film industry is often decried because this closes the door on new, young, up and coming ones. I feel, however, that in some instances this is needed so that there this continuity in quality TV shows. This is also the case in the South African context, but that’s a post for another day. I absolutely love this show because it embodies what is lacking in contemporary TV shows. As for the sartorial aspect; AMEN is a perennial winner.

Believe it or not this is James Avery with a toupee. At some point in the show he, playing the part of Rev. Crawford, and the deacon were competing, vying for a senor position in the church after the impending retirement of Rev. Didymo. The toupee blew me away because it seemed to denote that he's been balding for a long time.

Old man Rolly Forbes doesn't have much lines in each episode, however, he has the most sardonic rebuttals and one liners I have ever heard. Although the voice of reason no one is exempt from his sarcasm. The lady in this particular frame I recognised from an episode of the Steve Harvey, wherein she played a judge.

This gentleman played a role on The Cosby Show was Dr. Huxtable's father. Note the 2 inch cuff, double breasted pin stripe suit, and the white point collar shirt.

I love this kid, lil' Chris, always getting thrown out...

...for sticking his nose in grown folks' business and doing it in a caustic manner.

The First Community Church of Philadelphia. Incredibly dramatic scenes were shot in the church, including a little dabbling with televangelism.

The beautiful...

The exuberant...

...loud, earsplitting, deafening, sonorous, incomparable, inimitable, Jackée Harry.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation

Sponsorship Support: Johannesburg Fashion Week 2012

2011-11-25T10:40:00.001+02:00

The KwaZulu – Natal Fashion Council (KZNFC) in partnership with Trade and Investment KZN (TIKZN) are inviting KwaZulu-Natal based Fashion Designers to make an application to showcase at Johannesburg Fashion Week in February 2012. KZNFC and TIKZN will be co - sponsoring selected designers to attend this event.

Selection criteria includes:

BEE status
Export readiness (we will assist you with this)
Recent portfolio
Been in business for at least 2 years
Company registration documents

Fashion Designers who are interested in this opportunity must submit their most relevant and detailed CV to Jasmine Sultan – sultanj@durban.gov.za or hand deliver it to 41 Margaret Mncadi Avenue, 11th Floor, Rennie House.

The deadline for applications is 30 November 2011. For further information, please contact Jasmine Sultan on 031 311 4237 or 083 657 8442

The KwaZulu-Natal Fashion Council

2011-11-23T13:15:00.000+02:00

Exactly 8 days ago I attended a breakfast meeting organised by an amiable and very friendly lady, Jasmine Sultan. The meeting was a briefing and an introduction to the KwaZulu-Natal Fashion Council and the launch of its strategic programmes. I got wind of this meeting in a local daily and when I telephoned Jasmine to enquire into the council, its mission and purpose, Jasmine responded in a positive way acceding to my request to an invitation. The event started relatively on time and the proceedings commenced with a brief explication by Jasmine on the fashion council and its mission.

Within no time the room was full and two extra tables had to be put in place to accommodate the overflow, which delighted the organisers. The audience was a blend of individuals who are active and interested in the fashion industry. Students, fashion designers, fashion show producers and local government representatives comprised the audience. The Durban Universty of Techonology was represented by Head of Department in Fashion and Textiles, George Vorster. He gave a talk on the importance of fashion design at tertiary school level and the university's involvement with the fashion council. Anu Pather, programme manager (sectors) Ethekwini municipality within the economic development unit, expounded on government's role with the fashion council. Jasmine went in detail to explain how the fashion council would work, membership ( which is free until June 2013, then it will commence at R1000 per annum), and the fashion council's budget which has been subsidised by local government. The establishment of a fashion district in Durban is also an initiative of the council, especially because of the lack of one; and the need to centralise all fashion activities in the city. I see this as an opportunity to rebrand the city, as well as an exercise in urban rejuvenation, if you will. What is also to follow from this launch will be the establishment of a national fashion council which will comprise members from different councils throughout the country with a vested interest in the advancement of South African fashion.

Some of the strategic programmes of the fashion council include market access platforms, technical and business skills and a fashion design mentorship programme. The return of Durban Fashion week was also announced to the delight of the attendees. Some notable and venerable individuals in attendance were fashion designer Lindiwe Khuzwayo, fashion show producer Danny Moodliar of Absolute SA, and couture designer Haroun Hansrot. I had the opportunity to network with a few people and interesting discussions around fashion design took place; that have attracted me into doing a course in fashion design and menswear next year. I would be remiss if I didn't thank Jasmine for a well organised and informative briefing. Her warm and welcoming personality were enough to put everyone at ease and engaged in the morning's proceedings. For further information regarding the KZN Fashion Council Jasmine can be reached on 031 311 4237.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

In Living Colour

2011-11-18T09:16:00.000+02:00

I was having a conversation with two fashion design students a few days ago, when one of them intimated that men in Durban approach colourful clothes with some trepidation. Especially because the bright colours can lead to stereotyping of a sexual orientation nature, and further name calling. Just because you're wearing a magenta or lilac polo doesn't mean you're gay. Well...that's the first thought that generally comes to people's minds, I surmise. If colour is not your forte then in small doses is what will work for you. And there's no safer place to start than a polo shirt or a golfer as us people of the south call it. The above image clearly evinces the range of colours a gentleman has at his disposal going into spring and easing into summer. Temper the bright colour with a pair of chinos or neutral trousers; round everything off with canvas sneakers or loafers, respectively. If it was me then I wouldn't look far, The orange polo has a lavender polo logo; the blue has a yellow polo logo, and the pink has green, and so on and so on. The combinations are interminable and your style will resonate.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Poppy Has Lost Its Meaning And Is Now A Fashion Accessory

2011-11-16T23:56:00.001+02:00

Damascus: I turned on the television in my hotel room to witness a dreary sight; all the boys and girls of BBC World wearing their little poppies again. Bright red they were, with that particularly silly green leaf out of the top - it was never part of the original Lady Haig appeal - and not one dared to appear on screen without it. Do these pathetic men and women know how they mock the dead?

Now I've mentioned my dad too many times in my columns. He died almost 20 years ago so, after today, I think it's time he was allowed to rest in peace, and that readers should in future be spared his sometimes bald wisdom. But he had strong views about wearing the poppy. He was a soldier of the Great War, Battle of Arras 1918 - often called the Third Battle of the Somme - and the liberation of Cambrai, along with many troops from Canada.

Kaizer Wilhelm's army had charitably set the whole place on fire and he was appalled by the scorched earth policy of the retreating Germans. But of course, year after year, he would go along to the local cenotaph and he always wore his huge black coat, his regimental tie - 12th Battalion, The King's Liverpool Regiment - and his poppy. In those days, it was - I recall this accurately, I think - a darker red, blood-red. So my dad would stand and I would be next to him in my school blazer with my very own Lady Haig poppy, its long black wire snaking through the material, sprouting from my lapel.

My dad gave me lots of books about the Great War, so I knew about the assassination of Arch duke Ferdinand at Sarajevo before I went to school - and 47 years before I stood, amid real shellfire, in the real Sarajevo and put my feet on the very pavement where Gavrilo Princip fired the fatal shots.

But as the years passed, old Bill Fisk became very ruminative about the Great War. He learned that Haig had lied, that he himself had fought for a world that betrayed him, that 20 000 British died on the first day of the Somme - which he mercifully avoided because he first regiment, the Cheshires, sent him to Dublin and Cork to deal with another 1916 "problem" - was a trashing of human life.

In hospital and recovering from cancer, I asked him once why the Great War was fought, "All I can tell you, fellah," he said, "was that it was a great waste." And he swept his hand from left to right. Then he stopped wearing his poppy. I asked him why, and he said that he didn't want to see "so many damn fools" wearing it. What he meant was that all kinds of people who had no idea of the suffering of the Great War - or the second, for that matter - were now ostentatiously wearing a poppy for social or work-related reasons when it suited them, to keep in with their friends, betters or employers. These people, he said to me once, had no idea what the trenches of France were like , what it felt like to have your friends die beside you and then to confront their brothers and wives and lovers and parents.

At home I still have a box of photographs of his mates, all of them killed in 1918.

So like my dad, I stopped wearing the poppy on the week before Remembrance Day, November 11, when on the 11th hour of the 11th month of 1918, the armistice ended the war called Great. I didn't feel I deserved to wear it and I didn't think it represented my thoughts.

The original idea came, of course, from the Toronto military surgeon and poet John McCrae and was inspired by the death of his friend Lieutenant Alexis Helmer, killed on May 3, 1915.

In Flanders fields the poppies blow/
Between the crosses, row on row/

But it's a propaganda poem, urging readers to "take up the quarrel to the foe". Bill Fisk eventually understood this and turned against it. He was right.

I've had my share of wars and often return to the ancient Western Front. As a young boy, I also went to Ypres with my dad, stayed at the "Old Tom Hotel" (it is still there, on the same side of the square as the Cloth Hall) and met many other "old soldiers", all now dead.

I remember that they wanted to remember their dead comrades. But above all, they wanted an end to war. Heaven be thanked that the soldiers of the Great War cannot return today to discover how their sacrifice has been turned into a fashion appendage.

Robert Fisk-The Independent - The Mercury, Wednesday, November 9, 2011

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

GQ Best Dressed Men Of The Year 2011

2011-11-14T18:48:00.000+02:00

I am hopelessly late with this post, nevertheless, it still behooves me to post about it. Especially since it's an issue I post about every year. The GQ best dressed men of the year awards. Since I am very much still developing my style, I surmise it'll take a while for me to crack this list. However I'd love to get an invitation to this prestigious event. I think I decry the same thing every year with this list; and that is, the gentlemen on this list and their style are not prominent enough. I don't have a problem with the individuals themselves, just that I wish GQ did more to showcase their individual style, and whether they really deserve to be on the list. Another important aspect is the judging panel. I feel they, in my humble opinion, are not impartial enough, and that taints their objectivity and whether the gentlemen on the list are really deserving. A way of ensuring impartiality would be to open the voting to the public. Giving them the final say. That would be fair on everyone. Ok, before this turns into a lamentation or a rant, allow me to present you with the list of GQ's best dressed men for 2011. The list runs from tenth to first position.

Trevor Madondo, radio producer and entrepreneur

Jamal Nxedlana, multidisciplinary artist

Mncedisi Mayekiso, businessman

Loyiso Gola, comedian and TV presenter

Yaaseen Cader, model and leather goods artisan

Jamey Lipschitz, regional manager

AKA, rapper and music producer

Ziyon, vocalist and music producer

Maps, model and TV presenter

Oscar Pistorius, athlete

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Heirlooms

2011-11-09T21:02:00.000+02:00

Visiting my parents now and then has sometimes left me wistful because I sometimes reflect on the past. Particularly my childhood. Some aspects of my childhood I absolutely cherish and will always remember with fondness. Some aspects, I regret and wish I could turm back the hands of time in order to correct them. However part of growing up and moving on is learning from such experiences and then teaching my children about them. One of the aspects I regret is definitely items of various kinds I received from my father. Subsequently I didn't take care of them, and today I wish I still had them. Which leads me to this post; on what I consider to be Ngonelo family heirlooms.

The above two images are bags in my father's arsenal of luggage. I have been interested in this set consisting of an overnight bag and a satchel for years now. And with good reason. They are made of brown leather; the strong, sturdy kind and are multifunctional. The zippers are large and the zipper handles jingle with so much noise that they announce your arrival even before you come into view. One day I'm going to inherit them, and when that day comes I will be sure to pledge to keep and maintain them in such a manner that they can be passed on to my son.

This black leather duffel bag by venerable leather goods manufacturer Busby belongs to my mother. I surmise that according to tradition that something a mother is keeping for posterity is supposed to be passed on to her daughter. I intimated to my mother the first time I saw this duffel bag that she needs to pass it on to me one day. It would make a complementary addition to my everyday routine.

The latter part of the tag line for this blog is 'generation to generation', and this is none truer than the case of this chess board. I received it as a birthday present from my parents in 1988 when I was in standard 2. I was 10 years old and I had just started playing chess and I loved it a great deal. Whenver extra-mural period came, the teacher would hand everyone in the class a chess board made of cardboard and plastic pieces. This was usually my time to shine as I would always pull out my fold out chess board made with wood. And when unfolded the pieces would be exposed on the inside, held down by an elastic band. Today the board is still in a good condition but all the pieces have been misplaced. So, by the time my son gets to standard two, he will receive this chess board with new pieces. This exercise, I hope, will be the beginning of many occasions where my son receives something of value that he must pass on to his children one day. Blessed is the hand that giveth; I can't expect to inherit these bags from my parents without my pledging to do the same for my children.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Pardon The Interruption

2011-10-20T09:12:00.000+02:00

Dear readers, please excuse the paucity in posts. Especially the sudden break in the Quality week series. I don't think that once I'm back online I will continue with it because the break has definitely slowed my momentum. My laptop battery charger decided to pack up and stop working. Thus rendering the tool 'useless'. I hope to be back online by the 1st November. Until then please check the PG network for more great reads.

And as always...

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Quality Week Pt 2: Watchmaking; Le Locle

2011-10-12T21:03:00.000+02:00

How do you preserve a centuries old craft? You teach it to a group of young, enthusiastic students, who espouse and hold dear the history and legacy behind the craft. The future is in safe hands if these very students aspire to preserve the craft themselves, for posterity. This statement is none more truer than the tradition of watchmaking in a small town nestled in the Swiss Alps; Le Locle. A school in the town teaches the craft and students are discovering the intricacies and wonders of mechanical watchmaking.

A custodian of such a complex and intricate craft is a gentleman, who is also a teacher at the technical college in Le Locle, Yves Antoniotti. "Some of the technology has evolved, but the basic techniques remain unchanged." Techniques like hand-polishing screwheads until they gleam like mirrors, or grinding axle-ends down to a 10th of a millimetre using miniature lathes.

A four year course at the Le Locle technical college is grueling and arduous. As much as it is a test of one's patience (a cardinal virtue of a watchmaker), the process is also a test of a student's willpower, resilience and composure. In 1999 the class started with 17 students. Seven were left by 2001. The school year being a culmination of hand-tooling and assembling 92 miniscule components that make up a Zenith Marine Chronometer - a complex and intricate piece of micro-engineering. The paradox in this process is that the hand-tooling and assembling are considered obsolete, yet it is this very obsolescence that produces watches that fetch premium prices. In the words of Antoniotti, "The boom today is in complicated mechanical watches for the luxury market."

The history and preservation of watchmaking in Le Locle can be attributed to Daniel Jeanrichard. In the early 1700s Jeanrichard opened the region's first watchmaking workshop, sharing his skills with his seven children and a handful apprentices. Jeanrichard is legendary because he was a self-taught watchmaker who invented the first specialised watchmaking machinery.

Le Locle's school of watchmaking first opened its doors in 1886 and moved to its current premises in 1995. The traditional techniques of watchmaking are still applied. At the end of the course students will have mastered the history of watchmaking from the 15th century to the present day, in both theory and practice. This is a fact many of the teachers can attest to. The practical side of the course also entails: antiques and clocks in varying states of disassembly. The idea is to restore a clock or watch to its original state, thus tackling the problem of missing components. Research into where the timepiece was made and what tools were used is also conducted. Computer-assisted design programs to reconceptualise missing parts is juxtaposed next to a separate workshop with lathes and machine tools to produce them. The reward: when they leave the college, they should be able to do anything a professional watchmaker is ever called upon to do.

One of the student's, Tobias Schenkel, concedes that there's something absurd about his chosen profession. He concludes rather poignantly that, "watchmaking is like an island in the modern era. Amid all these new technologies, it's one old technology that's exactly the same today as it was 100 years ago."

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Quality Week Pt 1: Shoemaking; Berluti, Paris

2011-10-11T09:54:00.000+02:00

The beautiful thing about keeping things in the family is the fact that you attach sentimental meaning to everything. This was no different with Olga Berluti when she fashioned her first bovine effigy from the finest leather; she named the irresistable beast Torella, after her grandfather Torello Berluti. She was, at a young age, roped into the custom-made shoes family business to tame her somewhat intractible nature. What she was able to do over the years, especially at the helm, was introduce new innovations into the custom process "such as novel, deeply burnished patinas, unheard-of new colours of terra-cotta, viridescent sable, musty mulberry or pinot-noir purple; decorative "warrior" ridges, sometimes assymetrical, inspired by African tribal scarification; small pinch pleats and punch-hole "tattoos"; and a leather-strip "lasso" threaded along the side of a shoe like silk ribbon might have been at the court of Versailles."

The article takes a closer look at the Berluti custom shoemaking process and how Olga takes a hands-on approach, especially taking into consideration her high profile clientele; something she terms "four hands". Her approach to comfort and fit is quasi-medical because of her own consultations on foot physiology. A process she engaged with her physician and surgeon clients. Incisively articulated: she refuses to make the wrong shoe for a client's foot or lifestyle.

Olga Berluti refuses to call herself an artist; she prefers "workman, like the workers of the Renaissance"- or like her great-grandfather Alessandro Berluti, born in Senigallia on Italy's Adriatic coast. Somewhat of a dilettante in carpentry, he trekked to Paris in 1895 staying 10 years, in the process honing his shoemaking skills and establishing his reputation for custom-made shoes during the Universal Exhibition of 1900. This, however, did not signal the end of the family's work back in Senigallia. Torello, his son, learnt the craft in this workshop and then also made his way to Paris in 1928. Speak of young blood injecting new ideas and innovation, Torello made his fortune with a model called the "Pope's shoe" - a variation of his father's original seamless three-eyelet Oxford - along with the "Renaissance Prince's shoe" (a seamless moccasin) and the "Napoleon III," a high top model with the first ever elastic side gussets. In the early 1950s he moved into the wood paneled shop on the rue Marbeuf, near the Champs-Elysees, that is still the Berluti flagship.

In the 1960s and 70s Torello's son, Talbinio, took over the reins and added a line of luxury ready-to-wear shoes, making the label available to an ever-larger international clientele with somewhat less money. There is some serious exclusivity to Berluti clientele, by the time Olga took over the reins from Talbinio, the client list read like a Who's Who of 20th century arts, letters, science and industry: James de Rothschild, Gaston and Claude Gallimand, Cursio Malaparte, Alberto Moravia, Robert F. Kennedy, Edith Piaf, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Marcel Dassault, Francois Truffaut, Sergio Leone and Andy Warhol.

Some of the processes involved in the construction of a Berluti shoe are rather idiosyncratic and unique, a patented tanning process called Venetia, which produces an unusually supple leather. Others include, washing the hides in the lagoons of Venice, burying them in the Alpine snow at Cortina, and bleaching the finished leather by moonlight "for transparence." The discovery of jumbled piles of her grandfather's handmade wooden lasts, which traced the history of Berluti's clients, led Olga to a decision to preserve them. This entailed cleaning and polishing them, and dressing them up in fantasy coverings of feathers, brocades and lace. The collection is displayed all over her atelier apartment. A signature of Olga's innovations was the reinstatement of an ancient Italian shoemaker's tradition: the insertion of a thin piece of leather under the sole of every shoe. This was meant to provide extra support but also to carry the signature of the shoemaker and to represent the soul of the shoe - just as Olga is the soul of the house of Berluti.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Quality Week: The Quest For Quality; Time Magazine Throwback

2011-10-10T15:46:00.000+02:00

When I was at university I was a history major. I've lionized the subject ever since my primary school days. This week I delve, posit and discourse on history. History steeped in european traditions, family legacies and the art of craftsmanship. This is an issue of Time magazine that was published in August 2001, and inside is somewhat of a screed on why europeans strive for quality and craftsmanship. For this week I have seclected articles that have a bearing on the ethos of this blog. At the same time, I hope that as educational and enlightening as it was to me, it will be to you as well. I don't remember reading and consuming it back then as I have done in the past few weeks. What appeals to me is the fact that each article is specific and articulates the story of one particular craftsman. It is also geographic in nature, pinpointing, with the aid of a map, each region or place where a particular product is manufactured.

In this series of posts, which will be week long, I have selected topics such: shoes made in France, watches from Switzerland, embroidery from France and, textiles made in Austria. Stay tuned because the stories, legacies, and provenances behind these craftsmen will make for riveting reading.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Mr Price Espadrilles

2011-10-07T22:14:00.000+02:00

A few posts ago I posited on Mr Price espadrilles. I got a chance to witness a few, sometime this week, and I was satisfied with what I saw. A variety of colours and textures which would interest any gent with a stylish disposition. The only one I didn't get to see is the multicoloured, kaleidoscopic one; which is a firm favourite. Espadrilles are, no frills and no fuss. You needn't overthink the process when you desire to wear them. I like them with shorts, above the knee of course, and a shirt with rolled sleeves. Accessorise with reckless abandon, if you're brave enough, because the season allows for it. As for me I took particular interest in a red pair, and yellow. The best part about these shoes is the price. See for yourself.

White

Blue and white stripe; perfect with a dose of seersucker.

Grey

Charcoal

Stonewash denim

Camo (my least favourite)

Claret ( my favourite, along with turquoise and yellow)

Olive green

PG: Man to man, generation to generation,

"Did I Do That?"

2011-10-05T19:36:00.000+02:00

This lady, June Ambrose, is responsible for making over Jaleel White in autumn threads. And a mighty fine job she did. In an episode of "Styled by June" she took on the assignment of refining White's autumn wardrobe.

The wardrobe supplied by a vaunted and much talked about Paul Stuart. I think I need to do some research into this company to deduce what it's really about.

These shots evince a strong autumn presence and how to counter the change in a stylish and very pragmatic way.

Wool necktie, brown shoes, suede olive green shirt; the stuff autumn is all about.

Even though the jacket and trousers here are not of a rich and heavy texture the outfit signals slight changes to one's wardrobe when season's change. The tie and shirt do this marvelously.

If anyone remembers Steve Urkel's attire, brightly coloured pants with rolled cuffs, multi-coloured patch shirts, braces and saddle shoes. With an accordion not too far behind; I'd say this is one fine transition from TV to real life.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Bad Dynamics...

2011-10-02T05:07:00.001+02:00

...Insipid thin stripes worn together. Anything that causes your eyes to cross when you look in the mirror.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Autumn Rocks

2011-10-01T14:21:00.003+02:00

Photos via The Block/Steven Pan

If you're looking for a casual aesthetic to ease or endure a transitional season like autumn then this is it. I've lionized this combination of garments for quite some time. It's effortless and, evidently, amiable. It also doesn't require much thinking. You just pair trousers and a polo neck jersey. Footwear could be anything from formal boots, loafers, chukka boots, wingtips or even plain oxfords.

This post is out of season for southern hemisphere dwellers I concede, however, it's never too early or late to start preparing for the cold months ahead. The aesthetic on Lenny Kravitz redounds even more because it is a combination of fabrics and textures. The trousers appear to be tweed donegal in a brown shade. The polo neck jersey is slim fitting, fine gauge (in all probability), in a dark navy blue shade. An injection of creativity is evinced in the belt, which appears to be a slim, woven piece, in an even darker brown than the trousers. The hat, to me, is an affectation, which I would be averse to trying. However, it pulls the look together and lends it an even more casual/ laidback mien. I love it and I'm defintely going to try it next year.

I know you see how in shape Lenny Kravitz is. I'm even more convinced that you saw Chris Evans in the pages of the U.S. version of GQ in July; the fine gauge polo neck jersey cannot be executed with any semblance of a potbelly. That would ruin the aesthetic. So get in shape, it'll do you a world of good.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

It's Broke, So Let's Fix It pt 2

2011-09-26T12:46:00.000+02:00

The weather gave me a serious head fake on the morning of the day I was planning to take pictures of the sapphire blue suit I took for alterations and adjustments about 3 weeks ago. The day started off overcast with a slight chill in the air. The perfect weather to counter with a trevira wool suit. My glee, however, would be shortlived if not fleeting because as the morning wore on it started getting warmer and warmer, and by midday I was somewhat discouraged to continue with the 'photoshoot' because a spring sunset isn't easy on the body either. Now imagine me in a trevira wool suit taking pictures and sweating profusely. By late afternoon, around four o'clock the weather had reverted to the slight chill. I seized the opportunity. I proceeded to bust out a few shirts, ties, socks and accessories to complement the suit. As the rest of the pictures will evince, sapphire blue is an incredibly amiable colour that allows for endless combinations.

A caveat: if I cut a gaunt figure it's because of weight loss underpinned by a semblance of a salubrious lifestyle. I started this year on an unhealthy, overweight 94kg. My best, slimmest pair of jeans were strangling the life out of my waist and thighs, I needed a self imposed intervention. So, what did I do? I hit the road; jogging almost everyday a distance of about 10 - 11km. In July, I went back to the gym and when I weighed myself I was at the lowest I can ever remember; I was at a very light 85kg. How did I lose that much weight? It has been a combination of jogging, playing basketball twice a week, and somewhat watching what I eat. I've just recently gone back to the gym, just to build on my light, slim frame and push my weight back to the ideal, 88 - 90kg.

Now to the suit. I've got to hand it to the gentlemen at Soli Omar Tailors, they know their stuff. Yunus is always helpful, patient and engaging. Whenever I visit, I always ask for him because he and I have a wonderful rapport. Another helpful individual is Mohamed, the owner's son. He is always on hand to lend some advice and also school me on aspects of tailoring and his family's business. I really appreciate how they allow me to stretch their service to me and indulgences, even though some of them are whimsical or wishful thinking.

This was a total surprise to me. When I explained my wish for double vents to be inserted in this ventless jacket, the answer was an immutable "no". One vent was possible, but two? I was pretty much reaching. Imagine my surprise when they unfolded the jacket and two vents had been inserted. I was over the moon. Once more Soli Omar Tailors proved to me that 'there aint no problem that they can't fix'.

Apart from having the jacket taken in on the sides, I also had the sleeves shortened. The trousers came out perfectly as well. The length was reduced which resulted in one break. The bottom was also reduced. I'm sure the above image shows all this.

A closer look at the jacket evinces tightly pressed lapels. The top button was removed to effect a two button stance. No time for a boxy, stuffy 3-roll-2. The top button hole was stitched shut with a thread of the same hue. God bless them. Now how did they go the extra mile? Both lapels were stitched on the underside against the jacket just to keep the lapels in place and the 2 button stance constant and totally negate the semblance of a 3-roll-2. I also appluad them for doing this without me having thought of it. I surmise the reason being a story I once relayed to them about another jacket which was pared down to two buttons, after a visit to a dry cleaners, and after firm instructions not to roll the lapel back to a 3 button stance because the top button had been removed; when I received the suit back from the dry cleaners it had been rolled and pressed back to a 3 button stance even though the top button was missing. Even after strict instructions not to do so. I had even showed them what I was talking about. What followed was a vituperative jab at their customer service and how unhappy I was. Their attempts at redoing the jacket and remedying the situation did nothing to mollify me. I've never been back.

I like this button stance because it aggrandizes a deep V in the jacket, the lapels are wider and, it is a throwback to the 80s when the top button hit right at the navel.

I think the best complementary footwear in this context, especially taking into consideration the accessories; a green tie, green checked pocket square, would be ox-blood or chestnut brown shoes. I guess I can start preparing for next winter now and get a pair.

This was a first in many things. First time I'm wearing this embroidered check shirt with a tie. I also had it taken in on the sides and sleeves. A genuine silk pocket handkerchief pilfered from my father's wardrobe. I was instantly drawn to the quality, texture and feel of this handkerchief. When I popped into my breast pocket it just stood steadfast in the pocket, with a slight but ebulient overflow to the outside. I somewhat always have a challenge with pocket squares that don't hold firmly in place, they always slip and disappear into the pocket. This silken one was a breath of fresh air and a new experience. I will definitely be looking at acquiring more quality pocket squares and handkerchiefs. I just won't be breaking the bank though.

These yellow silk knots were a deft touch. It was the first time wearing them since receiving them as a gift from my brother. I finally got to put them to good use, they are incredibly serviceable.

The work done on this suit was quite extensive but worth it, especially in terms of the cost as well. I paid only R175 for the jacket and R50 for the pants. I would be remiss if I didn't thank the gentlemen at Soli Omar Tailors for their commitment and dedication, and for always assisting me with a smile. I can definitely vouch for them because the work of their hands is meticulous, thorough and immaculate. If you're looking for their exact location it is 331 Monty Naicker str (formerly Pine str) Durban. For further info you can also call them on 031 3055856.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

What Is An Inseam?

2011-09-25T00:19:00.000+02:00

There's no special reason, I just thought you should know.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

What's In A Name, Really?

2011-09-24T16:05:00.000+02:00

Paul Smith Blue Tonal Multi Stripe Knit Tie R950/ $106/ £69.00

I've had a whole week to think about this; the cost of men's clothing. And this thought was prompted by a Paul Smith knit tie I saw in a local magazine. For the life of me, I can't seem to justify paying R950 for a tie, even if it's by a revered and vaunted designer. There are a lot of important things in the world and a knit tie that costs almost half of my monthly grocery is not one of them. This is not an indictment of high end men's clothes because there is a place for them in society. However what is more important, a presentable look or a name brand look?

The average gentleman probably can't afford items like this knit tie. Therefore alternatives are essential. And in a South African context alternatives abound. I happen to fall in the alternatives collective particularly because of my income bracket and, what I can and cannot afford. I read so much on the internet, people's personal testimonies, on how they go about buying name brand clothes at dirt cheap prices. They look for sales, end-of-season sales, clearance sales, closing down sales, etc. These scenarios might make a difference in a monetary sense, however, I feel that in the South African context it doesn't apply and is not pragmatic. For instance if the pictured Paul Smith tie is slashed by 50% that is still too much money for the average South African gentleman to spend on a tie. I know I wouldn't.

The difference between the name brand, designer stuff and the alternatives I am talking about is quality. More often than not brand name clothing is made with high quality materials. This accounts for the high price, however, it's almost always worth it because the clothing is likely to last. An alternative or garment of lesser quality can also last just as long if it is taken care of meticulously. Back to the point about quality; quality is the key determinant on anything, men's clothing notwithstanding. The quality aspect manifests in the design of a garment, usually they are unique, and more special than non brand name garments. Special attention to detail is also a factor; buttons, trimmings, lining, etc, while non brand name garments lack precision and detail. This renders them plain and boring. What sets us apart in South Africa and the rest of the sartorial world is that attention to detail is neither make or break. Whether your garment has special fittings and trimmings, people will most probably not notice. So, why the fuss when style is both personal and subjective?

To support my explication above, I often look at the window displays of high end men's stores such as Levisons, Hugo Boss, Grays, and a host of others and I see that attention to detail is not really important. For me, any of the aforementioned men's stores and their ilk, when it comes to attention to detail, I expect for at least their jackets to have working cuffs. Believe me, I always check for this minor, seemingly inconsequential detail and I never find it. Now, where is the quality in that, when an off-the-rack Hugo Boss jacket is egregiously lacking in a simple sartorial detail that is standard in the design world? These are some of the things that make me stick to my guns in as far as the alternatives are concerned, people wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a R500 and a R1500 suit.

In conclusion let me proffer three tips on how to navigate the world of brand and non brand name shopping:

1. Try to strike a balance between cheap and brand name garments. Know which garments you can compromise on when it pertains to price but not necessarily quality; under shirts, underwear, socks, coats. I feel that there is a plethora of these garments; cheap but with good quality. Only a fool would ignore end of season, clearance, closing down sales, since they are a gold mine for unearthing brand name and good quality garments. So utilise them.

2. Don't pay an exorbitant price for a garment if there is a cheaper, almost as good, option available. My best fitting pair of jeans is a light blue pair by Watsons. I bought these jeans for R20, and these are the jeans I use as a prototype for all other measurements for jeans I buy. Don't focus all your energy on brand name clothing, as long as it fits, looks presentable and the price is right, then go for it.

3. Factory shops, factory shops, factory shops. I can't say enough about this concept of stores, particularly, because they are a cornerstone of the textile industry in South Africa. In terms of men's clothing this is a rarely explored domain. I would encourage any gentleman looking for quality men's clothes to look in the direction of factory shops because you're likely to find more than a fair share.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Laid Back Footwear

2011-09-20T22:56:00.001+02:00

You know, in the about me section of this blog I deliberately describe myself as 'given to nostalgia'. That's because, to and for me, nostalgia isn't inconsequential nor ephemera. To keep my memory bank replenished I always draw on my past, especially childhood memories. Not because I'm wistful, but because I know where I come from, I'm glad that, through it all, I'm still here, and I know where I want to go. I, therefore, would be remiss if I talked about espadrilles without mentioning the TV series that first hipped me to these shoes. Does anyone remember Tropical Heat, from the early 90s, starring Rob Stewart? I was only but a freshman in high school when it first aired. This man, Nick Slaughter, the private detective character played by Stewart, was perenially cool. His slicked back hair tied into a pony tail, the hawaii shirts with 2 to 3 buttons undone, the ever present shorts. And, finally, the espadrilles. They definitely caught my eye. At times I would try to replicate this look with my own clothes and I'd always come close except for the shoe department. I didn't own espadrilles, I didn't even know they were called espadrilles. All I knew was Nick Slaughter looked incredibly laid back, cool, natural and effortless. And it had to be the shoes.

This Paez espadrille is the perfect complement to any summer outfit you might have in mind. It's so affordable as well, going at R350 a pair. What redounds to me most about this particular one is the multicolour scheme its got going on. It really gives you endless possibilities in terms of what to pair it with. Of course not going towards clown territory, but keeping it styish and tasteful.

I remember a day, not long ago, at the gym some dude working out in a pair of white Lacoste espadrilles. I couldn't help it but shake my head. These are slightly pricey, going for R650 a pair. Obtainable at any Spitz or Levinsons stores. For something inexpensive and stylish then I would also recommend a pair of espadrilles from Mr. Price. They retail for R79.99, and are worth it. With espadrilles the colours tend to be bright and lively without demanding attention, and the playful patterns are able to draw a surprising variety from such a no-frills canvas. If you're looking for footwear that'll unleash ample creativity within certain boundaries, then espadrilles are a great place to start.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Black And Navy Blue Combination Done With Savvy

2011-09-16T06:11:00.000+02:00

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Ballers At Fashion Week

2011-09-15T07:38:00.002+02:00

I don't like this. I don't like this one bit. If the current Collective Bargaining Agreement talks between the National Basketball Association, team owners and the players' union, don't work out, then I am filled with a sense of foreboding. I see some hungry days ahead. If there is no headway by October then I am going to have a listless November because that's when the NBA season is scheduled to start. ESPN is incredibly boring right now. I'm a lover of sports but some are just inaccessible in the way they are presented and played. Take American football, for instance, too many stops and starts, therefore the lack of flow in the game cuts my attention span by like 3 and a half quarters. I enjoyed the US Open, last week. Local football has, for me, made a resurgence in the minds and hearts of South Africans. That means this season has plenty in store, for us, its supporters. I don't have time for fishing, poker, NASCAR (in fact, any kind of car racing).

Amar'e Stoudemire

So, while it seems that baksetball players will be taking an extended break from their jobs, a few of the style conscious ones have been making appearances at this year's Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. One thing is for sure, these guys are redefining the way big men should dress. Paying particular attention to the cardinal rules of proportion and fit. Browse with me.

LeBron James

Dwyane Wade

Shawn Marion

Chris Bosh

Carmelo Anthony

Kris Humphries

Images taken from Wire Images and Getty Images.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Black and Navy Blue

2011-09-14T06:37:00.001+02:00

No other combination of colours throws me into ambivalence and trepidation like black and blue. Navy blue, to be exact. A black suit and a navy blue tie to be more precise. At first glance they seem incompatible, especially because the navy blue tie tends to be obscured by the black suit. To the style novice the pairing of these two colours can be an expirential exercise steeped in aesthetic and visual mendaciousness. A lack in confidence can render it a sartorial aberration. However as dull and incompatible the combination may appear to be, there are ways to make it work, and give it a dégagé look.

First, pattern mixing.

The more patterns you mix, the less offhanded the combination will look. It even speaks volumes about your style if you're going to mix patterns that don't belong in the same family.

Secondly, a shirt can allow for greater experimentation. Think about the myriad colours black and navy can be effortlessly combined with. Pink, purple, lavender, blue, etc, if you in any way find yourself in a state of flummox, then a white shirt is your best and safest option. Any tie you wear with any combination or pattern of blue will look good against a back-drop of a white shirt.

This combination needn't be difficult to pull off, all you need is practical know-how and loads of confidence. Especially in the given context of black and navy blue being amiable colours. Conversely, I find the combination of a navy blue suit and a black tie, quite addling. But that's another post for another day.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Let The Freebie Guide You

2011-09-12T23:10:00.001+02:00

Before I substantiate on what I mean by the title to this post, there is a caveat: I am not a freebie person. I don’t go out looking for freebies, I don’t go out of my way for a freebie. Think about those times when in the company of a multitude of people, your attention captivated by one particular person, and said individual tosses a freebie into the crowd. You guessed right, I’m not one to go after the trinket, or what have you, in order to fulfil some personal fantasy involving the aforementioned individual. So, those items being tossed into the crowd, I can’t really go for that. What about when rappers make it rain? Like Jay-Z, Bun-B and Pimp C did in the ‘Big Pimpin’ video? Um, I’ve never experienced that, and I don’t think a South African rapper could be that profligate. It’s never going to happen. I digress.

In the world of marketing media and mass production of consumer goods, product companies have teamed up with print companies in order to advertise and promote their products. Think of when you open an issue of your favourite men’s magazine and enclosed inside the plastic covering is a product geared towards men. That product is meant to plant a seed in your mind. Of course you’re meant to use it. And after using it you make an informed choice to go and purchase it because it appealed to you; the power of suggestion. Over the past couple of months I have used said products, found inside magazine packaging, and have found that they led me to buying the real thing not too long after. And these have been good investments.

In a previous post I spoke about Carolina Herrera’s new CH Men, and how I purchased and started using it, especially because I find that it is very compatible with spring. Another product I am excited about, which has me going on a whole new journey, is the Revitalising Face Gel for men by Nivea. This means I am starting on a face and skin care regimen quite soon. My steps are gradual but very calculated and informed. And nothing does the calculating and informing for me, like the freebies. At times, I find generic stuff like deodorant, roll-on, etc, and I never make the mistake of dismissing or throwing them away because they are handy as ever. The deodorant, for instance, is in my sports toiletry bag. After playing some ball, and hitting the showers, it’s then that I use it.

And GQ magazine is the biggest proprietor of such marketing campaigns. When it comes to fragrances I don’t think I can ever find myself addled for choice, because GQ magazine is sometimes replete with fragrance advertisements. You know the ones with a quarter of the page folded and when you lift up the folded part the scent of the fragrance is redolent on the page. That’s the power of suggestion. From that little whiff you are informed about the choices you have as a consumer. You’re spoilt for choice and your starting point now becomes a vantage point.

This month’s Destiny Man magazine has come out on a strong marketing drive. Enclosed inside the plastic covering with the magazine is a beautiful, hard cover note book. The kind I am going to use to jot down Bible verses. However, this isn’t any ordinary notebook; it’s got an elastic band to hold down pages, Audi insignia to denote some sort of joint venture between the publishers and Audi and, the whole book is replete with quotes on every page. This is a freebie you don’t want to let slip away.

In essence all I’m saying is, there is something in each and every freebie you find enclosed in a magazine, newspaper, or whatever packaging. To some they may be inconsequential. To others they may be the introduction to a whole new way of living.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Five Spring Essentials For Men

2011-09-09T21:23:00.002+02:00

Gentlemen, spring is upon us and it seems to have totally diminished the cold weather from the past three months. The mornings and evenings, however, still have that residual, lingering chill that connotes a winter that just won’t go away. During the day it’s straight up warm accompanied by that musty humidity that coerces you to take a midday shower, if necessary. To counter the heat and humidity you need some season/ climate appropriate essentials that will ease you into spring and transition mellifluously into summer. The way I see it these are some of the items you need in rotation, now that it’s spring:

Light-weight cardigan

The cold isn’t exactly out yet, especially in the early mornings and evenings. So, to keep the slight chill away and your upper body warm, a bright, light-weight cardigan should do the trick. Bright colours such as aqua, turquoise, fuchsia, magenta, lavender, yellow, etc, will evoke the air of spring, and this will exude in your dress code. Pastel colours will be more apt for summer.

In my humble opinion, a cardigan works better than a v-neck cardigan, because your body and immediate temperature can be regulated by buttoning or unbuttoning the cardigan. If it gets a little stuffy then opening the cardigan will suffice. There is no need to take the whole thing off because this creates more baggage. When the slight, breezy chill makes a return, then buttoning the cardigan will restore you to warmth. This type of cardigan is made of light wool or a wool-cotton mix, and can be dressed for work, with a tie, and over a button-down shirt over the weekend.

A new fragrance

Nothing says new season, a fresh start, lighter dressing, the old has gone, the new has come, than a new fragrance. A fresh, sweet and curious scent. Something like Carolina Herrera’s new, CH Men. This cologne has singlehandedly relegated my winter fragrance, which I used to wear deep into spring as well, to the back of the closet because this fragrance, CH Men, pretty much blew me away.

It’s supplanted the old fragrance I use in winter and will be a mainstay for years to come.I’m not adept at describing things; therefore I can’t really describe what this scent is like. All I can say, like Mary J. Blige, is that it is sweet and fresh, and the slight citrusy scent has a wonderful and incredible lingering effect. If you’re looking for a head turner, nostril glommer; then this is the fragrance for you.

Canvas sneaker

This is nothing new, every stylish gent out there knows that when it’s spring the boots are locked away and the lighter, softer shoes make a comeback; like canvas sneakers. In this case I would like to plead a case for the navy blue Converse All Star Chuck Taylor lo’s. All the walking in the concrete jungle can be done in these sneaks. Soft, easy, flexible, comfortable and stylish, it doesn’t get better than that. Not forgetting

that these sneakers are a great addition to weekend wear, because in this colour they coordinate well and complement a variety of clothing combinations. They are my pick for spring 2011, over and above, say…navy blue Jack Purcell’s. I like Chuck Taylor’s because they are slimmer and stand more to the ground than Purcell’s.

Brighter Chinos

The first time I ever heard the word Nantucket was on Mase’s ‘24 hours to live’, featuring Black Rob, Puff Daddy, DMX and The Lox. Jadakiss, on his verse, says:

Yo, yo, if I had 24 hours to kick the bucket,
I'd probably eat some fried chicken, and drink in Nantucket

Only in subsequent years did I learn that Nantucket is an island south of Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Only after going on this sartorial journey have I learnt that there is a shade of chinos, in a faded red, pink and salmon, etc, that are known as nantucket reds.

Photo: Courtesy of Murray's Toggery Shop

Believe me, these chinos, in this shade are not garish, but rather classic style. And spring affords you the opportunity to be bold and outgoing in nantucket reds. The greatest complement of nantucket reds is a white shirt or golf shirt. Brown boat shoes seal the deal. I’m sure if you scour Durban thoroughly, or even the country, you can find this classic staple.

The shirt in giant gingham

If you’re reader of Perfect Gentleman SA, first, let me say, “Thank You.” Secondly, you know of my penchant to get things right, to name them correctly, so that I speak about them aptly, with confidence. Therefore, it’s no mystery that this shirt has been a mystery to me for years.

Its pattern is a throwback to the 80s, however it goes back to the future with its modern design; regular fit-a tailored cut with a made to measure feel. It can also most certainly be dressed up, as the image evinces. For a more weather appropriate shirt then the slub cotton shirt in giant gingham is for you.

This one by J. Crew is made of slub cotton, which entails rustic tones, a secret wash and a sanded feel to make it look like it’s been owned forever, and very spring appropriate.

I hope this information guides you in making the correct sartorial pieces in this especially tricky transitional period. For now, happy spring to you all.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Moccasins vs Loafers

2011-09-04T16:36:00.000+02:00

It's always right to know what you're talking about, be it any subject. And there is no time, to learn something 'new', like the present. I remember a time when the differences between brogues and wingtips addled me. As the title suggests, I hope to outline, both concisely and correctly, the differences between moccasins and loafers. I have always wondered what the distinctions between the aforementioned shoes are, because they seem to be one and the same thing. But they're not. Let's start with moccasins.

The provenance of moccasins is traced back to Native Americans who fashioned their own moccasins (usually in a boot design) primarily for hunting purposes. Made from deerskin and a rubber sole, the shoes made for stealth like movement during hunting. Over time moccasin design has evolved, and embraced soft leather, consisting of a sole and sides made of one piece of leather, stitched together at the top. The primary distinguishing feature of moccasins is that they do not have a heel. There might be what appears to be a semblance of a heel but that is just something for decorative purposes. For example, Tod's moccasins come with multiple studs on the sole, these have become a trademark of Tod's. Berluti have a model of moccasin with a bearfoot print on the sole. The shoe has no heel except for the slightly raised bearfoot print which doesn't function like or as a heel. One indubitable fact is that moccasins are hugely popular in South Africa.

Loafers on the other hand, ironically as well, are simply constructed shoes that base their style on the moccasin. Loafers, therefore, are low leather slip-on shoes that resemble a moccasin. The primary distinguishing feature of a loafer is that it has a distinct heel. Loafer design and styles have also evolved over the years incorporating tassels, kilties, embellishments, bows, bow laces, chains and metal bits.

The most popular loafer to date has got to be the horse-bit loafer by Gucci. Although a variety of designs by different brands have emerged, with their own metal bits, the Gucci horse-bit loafer remains a firm favourite.

I hope this post was to your benefit as much as it was mine. Knowing the distinction between moccasins and loafers guarantees that you can both wear and talk about them with aplomb.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

It's Broke, So Let's Fix It

2011-09-01T16:19:00.000+02:00

If you read this blog then you already know of my ambivalence for three button suits. I say ambivalent because some three button suits I'm inclined to like and, others I dislike outright. The high button stance, short lapel, boxy and stuffy kind I dislike. The softer, 3-roll-2 is definitely something I like. However, being in South Africa has placed me at a disadvantage because I've never come across a 3-roll-2 jacket.

This three button, sapphire blue suit, in trevira wool, is going to face the proverbial chop of being pared down to two buttons. The pants will be altered at the waist, thigh, knee and bottom opening. The legnth of the pants as well. The sides on the jacket will be taken in and a single, middle vent inserted at the back. What I have learnt with this sizing and proportion issue is that I now know my exact or approximate measurements. From sleeve length to the trouser in-seam to my neck size, I have a fairly good idea what my measurements are. I couldn't of done it, however, without the assistance of the gentlemen at Soli Omar Tailors.

This particular suit is in a slightly coarse and weighty wool. Therefore, I will probably wear it on those chilly spring days. It will get a good run next winter, though. What I relish most are the endless possibilities, in terms of colour scheme combinations, I am going to try. With the sapphire blue being the canvass.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Nothing Enervates Me Quite Like...

2011-08-30T22:51:00.000+02:00

...jackets with no pocket flaps. Especially if it's not a tux or dinner jacket. I don't know why I didn't realise this at the time of purchase of this jacket. I don't understand this concept of jetted pockets on normal suit jackets. I surmise this was a trend some time ago. This past Sunday I witnessed a gentleman wearing a double breasted suit with a lower button stance. It was a 6x1, with jetted pockets. Juxtaposed with mine, on the very same day, I concluded that it must've been prevalent in the 80s, a decade when double breasted suits were the rage. The lower button stance, ventless back and jetted pockets, these were features of the suit. The aforementioned gentleman's jacket was exactly as described here.

Pocket flaps, for me, fulfill a purpose. An aesthetic one to be precise. Therefore this jacket seems imbalanced because of the glaring omission of pocket flaps. While we're on the issue I also want to explicate on the double breasted jacket and neck-tie combination. Especially where proportion of the tie width and jacket lapels are concerned.

Tie width has never been an issue when wearing a double breated jacket with a 6x2 button stance. Bar a slim tie, any other tie can work in such an ensemble because the button stance is higher and therefore allows for very little space for the tie to be displayed. On double breasted jackets with a lower button stance, whether 6x1 or 4x1 (like the one pictured), a tie with a narrow width simply doesn't work. The picture above clearly evinces this fact. Those lapels are so wide, they beat the tie into submission. The tie therefore seems like an after thought because the jacket and lapels took precedence. What would work then is a thicker, wider tie. This will ensure some semblance of symmetry and an ensemble where all your pieces get equal flourish and display.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Purple Shoes - I Got To Have Them

2011-08-29T23:57:00.003+02:00

I interrupt the dearth in posts to present what, I believe, we all have suffered from at some stage of our lives; breaking the bank in order to make that purchase. That one purchase we believe will set us apart from the rest. Thus exponentially increasing our swagger to unreachable heights. After the purchase you almost always feel like you've conquered the world. You're the coolest thing yet. You're the man.

I've had a few good chuckles at this commercial. And the dance at the end is what makes it uniquely South African. Conversely, I think there are better options for statement shoes though, because purple AND sequined is just incredibly garish.

I'm back to regular posting tomorrow.

Dad's 60th

2011-08-10T10:55:00.001+02:00

Sometime in late June this year a multitude of my father’s friends and family gathered at the Riverside Hotel to celebrate his 60^th birthday. The biggest shock for my dad was that it was a surprise party engendered by my mother. Everyone was there. His closest friends, childhood friends, extended family, his spiritual father, colleagues, church members, etc. And with my sister’s jam session mates playing the music and serenading us, everyone had a beatific time.

One thing I wasn’t quite aware of is how well dressed and stylish my brother is. The modern migrant labour system has taken him 650km away from home, which means we see each other for a modicum of time periodically. Sometimes months go by without seeing each other. It’s cool though because we keep in touch otherwise.

There is an air of debonair flair in the way that he dresses. I had the pleasure of witnessing his dress sense over a five day period and I must say; his style has evolved some, with no hints of levity. Every one of his ensembles is well considered and balanced. Not edgy at all, he projects his creativity in his colourful socks, pocket squares and time pieces. Consider this ensemble pictured: a tailored black double breasted pin stripe suit and black patent leather shoes. The purple bow tie was totally tangential, for me; something I didn't expect. His watch is by Ingersoll. Even though he wasn’t wearing a pocket square, it is inconsequential because keeping his outfit dark and black propitiated on his behalf. I read all over the internet about a sartorial style called hi-lo. The mixing of high and low end brands in an outfit. Our styles are a definite dichotomy; he’s hi and I’m lo.

I can't believe he's taller than me. I'll still post him up though.

Hurry Up And Buy

2011-08-09T18:33:00.001+02:00

I would like to take this opportunity to disabuse all Durban gentlemen on a half-truth that has been perpetuated for a very long time. There is no mild winter in Durban anymore. It is cold. It can get bitterly cold. And one day I expect for snowflakes to fall. When foreigners state that our winters feel like summer to them, don’t fall for that. The weather pattern has changed drastically over the last 10 years. And it would behove any gent to take heed, and take the necessary steps in acquiring some heavy outerwear, in the form of a coat. The wet precipitation that has been accompanying the cold weather also means that you can look at a variety of styles and designs. For now get a coat that can protect and insulate you from the cold.

Three tips when purchasing a coat:

Fit is important as the correct fit lends itself to the overall balance of your outfit. One size up is the best option. You want the coat to fit seamlessly over a thick knit as well as it would over a suit.

Colour is what keeps you from falling outside the parameters of guided style. Your safest options are navy, black and charcoal. The aforementioned colours are for the novice. Camel- beige for the pro, and plaid and other patters for the seasoned vet.

The length of your coat is what sets you apart from antiquated styles and the more contemporary progressive ones. The older generation, much like father, still prefer the extra long coat that goes way beyond the knee and into shin territory. The newer styles are geared more towards the younger generation go above the knee. Not too far high, so as to not accommodate a jacket though. Therefore think along these lines when purchasing a coat. Next season, I promise, to delve into the myriad styles and types of coats available. For now, I hope this helps,

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Perfect Gentleman Goes Dining

2011-08-05T19:58:00.004+02:00

On Wednesday evening I had the pleasure of attending a wonderful evening of enlightening and spirited conversation, mouth watering cuisine and inspiring company. Our host, the animated, effervescent and highly affable Russel Hlongwane, the founder of the Fork, Knife and Glass Diner’s Club and its subsequent eponymous blog, was on hand to receive us all as his guests. This Dinner club is his brainchild and is nothing short of an innovative paradigm shift when it comes to dining in Durban.

The basic concept of the Diner’s Club is: a group of individuals accede to an invitation to attend every first Wednesday of the month. This goes down at a different eatery every time. These restaurants are sometimes new to the attendees, much like the Wodka Restaurant and Bar. Nestled on the ground floor of the Signature Life Hotel on Mahatma Gandhi Road. For a flat fee of R120, guests get to enjoy a three course meal. I’ve discovered something about cuisine and dining, something that has always addled me; why are portions so small? Are they filling? Satisfying? But then it dawned on me that cuisine and fine dining comes in small portions because it’s about the quality of the food, and not the quantity. It’s about savouring the food, teasing the palate, relishing the taste and leaving space for the other courses. Russel guffawed at my theory but also agreed that it is true. It’s not about mountain heaps on your plate, but small manageable portions. It’s intrinsically healthy, too.

I absolutely enjoyed the Couscous Tabbouleh salad so much, that I incorporated it into my main course of pan seared Line fish marinated in lemon and dill, finished with Chardonnay. All of this on a fluffy and inconspicuous bed of mash.

For dessert, I had the perplexing task of choosing between Lemon and Basil cheese cake or Espresso Crème Brule with Macadamia Biscotti, after some time I settled on the latter. And I was not disappointed with my choice. What didn’t agree with my palate was the smoked salmon, especially because I surmise it was raw. I don't do raw, medium, medium rare, etc. I like my food well done. I really don't understand the hype about salmon.

The ambience, a milieu that allows for the free flow of innovative ideas is what the dining experience is all about. Especially when coupled with the fact that the diners are somewhat strangers to each other. It was inspiring, really. I was in conversation with a lady from the Eastern Cape and she intimated to me how she desires to go back to the Eastern Cape and work towards rebuilding and redeveloping it. It’s probably the poorest province in South Africa.

For this event I decided on being formal in dress. Grey trousers, a white shirt, a blue blazer with gold buttons and a red tie. Accessories included a gold collar pin, black mock-croc loafers and a woven black leather belt. The Fork Knife and Glass Dinner Club and the Wodka Restaurant and Bar get a thumbs up from Perfect Gentleman. This experience was well worth it.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Big Shoes To Fill, And Big Pants

2011-08-03T17:50:00.001+02:00

So, part of the process of going back home is the fact that you will always find things that have a direct reference to your past, your upbringing, memories, etc. You know, life's vagaries. It has been no different with me, especially after serendipitously finding a photo album my mom has been looking for, for a while. So, I came across this picture of Mfingwane; a great-grandfather from my maternal side who, according to my mother, was a sharp dresser. She even intimated to me about another picture she misplaced of Mfingwane and his wife going to the horse race track, and how they were well styled and dressed. This particular picture was taken in 1968, and after gleaning it for a while, I couldn't help but exclaim at his wearing a pocket square. Much in the same way, these days, I also stop, stare and appreciate whenever I witness a senior citizen well dressed in seemingly an unconscious and oblivious way.

I, therefore, have big shoes to fill. No doubt. If my great-grandfather could dress well with such effortless ease and aplomb, then I'm sure there is way more hope for me. From man to man, generation to generation, style definitely runs in my family.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

My First Time Packing Aptly

2011-08-01T15:31:00.000+02:00

My family and I are away this week, and with this trip in mind I took the conscious decision to pack exactly what I needed and for what purpose. Let me explicate the aforementioned statement. Going away for 7 days can be refreshing for anybody. The daunting and labourious part is not knowing what to pack, for what reason. In order to navigate and complete this task in a sating manner I had to consider what and why I packed the items I did. First, the weather was a vital component of the packing process. With this week’s weather being predominantly warm, quite conventional for a Durban winter, I decided on mixing light and heavy fabrics. The lightweight’s for day wear. The heavies for the evenings. This week, therefore, my plan is to take you through three outfits that I chose and packed meticulously in order to ensure a sartorially hassle free week.

For this post, since it’s a Monday, I had a few errands to run in town during the day. Since it’s been a warm day I decided on this grey, one button cotton jacket. Very practical for this weather, especially where comfort is concerned. These navy blue, rice stripe trousers were the perfect complement to the jacket and the brown and navy, windowpane check, button down shirt. Purpose, therefore, is important to justify why you’re packing a particular outfit or item of clothing. I am also attending two functions therefore my packing has been specifically geared towards this.

I gave my chocolate brown cap-toe, lace up shoes a much needed polish. This breathed new life into them. The high shine and finish is not clearly seen in this picture. I guess, this was a first of many things though. I also attempted a three-point fold for my pocket square. Something I've never tried before. The outcome? Satisfactory.

The packing of this outfit was meticulous to the tee. Even the socks were an indispensable consideration. I remember the days when packing for going away meant a slew of t-shirts, a bunch of shoes, shorts, caps, jeans and a few jackets. Now that was simple, and even stylish in my estimation back then. However, as a style conscious gent; packing now entails even greater simplicity and limitless style.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Game Recognise Game

2011-07-30T13:15:00.000+02:00

The wonderful people at pocketchange.become.com identified Perfect Gentleman SA in their Best of the Web series. This week I find myself in the sage and influential company of Image Granted and Man of Style, and other blogs authored by stylish and fashionable women. This can only mean that this blog is reaching far and wide, and is making a positive impact. My consistency in this recognition is that, I am once again surprised at the love this blog gets. This invariably inspires and motivates me to do more and better with Perfect Gentleman SA.

Five Items Not Readily Available In S.A.

2011-07-27T23:29:00.000+02:00

I have always loved Nike's Air Force One's. I recall a spread in SLAM magazine, back in the late 90s, that chronicled the evolution and rise of Nike's basketball trainers. At the time I was hip to Air Force One's, even though they weren't readily available in South Africa. This was in 1997. My recollection is vivid because at the time a young and tractible Rasheed Wallace, a rookie with the then Washington Bullets, adorned his feet in the shoes. In my view, he brought them back to prominence and mainstream acceptance. Today, Air Force One's are the quintessential shoe of hip-hop artists. All the way in South Africa, I yearned for a pair of Force's, but they were nowhere to be found. Until 7 years later, in 2003, they debuted in S.A. My love of Force's had not waned, so I went out a got myself a pair. The high model, in all white with a blue sole, complete with a velcro strap. As I've alluded before, in South Africa we lag behind in a myriad of trends, fashonsand styles. What may be current to us is most probably so two or three seasons ago to the rest of the world. It's frustrating at times. I was thinking about this list, of items pertaining to men's style and dress, I wish were readily available but are not. Not that the funds to acquire them are available. However the guarantee that they are readily available would be most comforting. Especially at a time when the funds are abundant.

1. Quilted Jacket

I see myself incorporating a quilted jacket into my autumn wardrobe with ease. However not even major clothing retail outlets have caught on. I've heard and seen so much of the Barbour quilted jacket that I wish Stone Harbour could come out with their own version. It is a garment I could carry with effortless aplomb. I surmise because it isn't trendy or fashionable, that is why it hasn't caught on to the mainstream market. But then again even if it were available I don't think the mainstream would be aware of its value.

2. Mackintosh Coat

I have searched everywhere, in Durban, for a mackintosh, to no avail. To me it seems like the simpler in design it is, the more elusive it's bound to be. Visit any men's clothing store and you will find trench coats, 3/4 long coats, double breasted coats, etc. The one coat conspicuous by absence is a mackintosh. Even my favourite coat and thrift stores don't carry it. I have not given up, however, I wonder why though it hasn't hit our shores in a mainstream kind of way.

3. Shoe Trees

Not even exclusively, high end shoe stores sell their shoes inclusive of shoe trees. Maybe it's a way to get people to keep coming back to buy shoes as opposed to them taking care of their shoes for a long time. That's just conjecture by the way. I wouldn't know why shoe trees are not available in S.A, but it is frustrating that such a seemingly simple item, pertinent to shoe care is virutally unknown. I've even tried an internet search and that turned up nothing. I'll leave it to you to guess what measures I have employed in order to preserve the shape of my shoes.

4. Velvet Slippers

Maybe the quirkiness of this shoe lends itself to an esoteric consumer. I used to think velvet slippers were for a particular kind of gentleman, however, after witnessing a plethora of aesthetics the slippers have been applied to, I am more than convinced that this shoe is for the style conscious gent. It's nothing short of impressive how velvet slippers can go from formal to casual wear in an instant. I once saw, when I was in Johannesburg, what resembled velvet slippers, complete with the skull and bones motif on the upper. Alas, they were in satin, and therefore were not the authentic thing. Needless to say, before they go mainstream, I expect our fine men's stores to get with the programme.

5. Galoshes

This week has evinced 3 days and nights of torrential rain. Now, how do you keep the rain off and out of your shoes? You use rubber covers or overshoes called galoshes. They seem like a sure fire way to keep your shoes dry. Now rubber boots, Wellingtons, etc, may be prevalent, but their low cut cousins are nowhere to be found. And, there is a definite practicality to them, those cracks to the leather brought on by water seepage can be avoided by wearing galoshes thus protecting and preserving your shoes for a longer period. South Africa is a country full of innovative individuals, I'm surprised no one has come out with make shift galoshes fashioned from gum boots.

I think it's important to note that what also precludes me from such acquisitions is the rate of foreign exchange between the South African rand and other major currencies, specifically the dollar and pound. Therefore purchasing on the internet is just as much a futile exercise as when I traverse the streets searching for them.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

One And The Same Thing...

2011-07-26T11:00:00.000+02:00

Since I am inclined to be politically correct when it comes to the names of things, I thought it necessary to distinguish the difference between a turtleneck and a poloneck. The difference is, there is no difference; except for the provenance of both the names.

Turtleneck - US

Poloneck - UK

There's no special reason, I just thought you should know.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Indispensable Details

2011-07-22T14:15:00.000+02:00

I love these trousers. They have become an immense boon to my whole wardrobe. Particularly the trouser and pants section. For the longest time I had a challenge with the length, thigh, knee and the bottom opening. After graduating into the fit and proportion ranks I lost all affinity for baggy clothes. It's rather serendipitous how this particular pair of trousers came to be in my possession, and how they came to be the perfect fit and the model for all my trousers, pants and those I will acquire in the future. I bought them when I was in Johannesburg last year, taking a stroll with a very good friend of mine through a taxi rank called Noord Street. I paid a lowly R20 for them. Now, let's get to the details.

I'm not new to narrow belt loops therefore dealing with this trouser was not a challenge. I have a sufficient supply of slim belts that fit mellifluously into the loops. Something of an anomaly, in my view, are the side pockets. They are slanted as convention would have them, however there is a slight curve to the slant. Something I have not seen before, which makes pocketing my hands all the more comfortable. Particularly because they are flat front. I am not a fan of flat front trousers and therefore because of the dimensions of these pants, I have somewhat loosened up when it comes to flat fronts. As long as the waist, thighs and pockets don't feel fettered, I will continue giving flat fronts a nod.

More of the details reveal some rubbery suede tabs on the inside of the waistline. These tabs, sown all around the waist, I surmise, function as fetters in order to prevent anything tucked to be untucked. The veracity of this claim I can't really corroborate because I've worn the trousers a few times with a shirt and a v-neck jersey or a jacket, but never realy really took note whether my shirts were spilling out.

Fast forward to what I will be wearing in summer. A pair of black golf shorts I found at Meltz last year for below R50. I had them altered at the length only. Moving them well above the knee. The shorts evince double pleats, a feature loved and appreciated by myself. I think I may just take them back to the tailor to have a turn-up inserted. They look too plain right now. Now, to the details:

The wearing of a belt here has been precluded even before the first wearing of these shorts. Instead of the usual waistband, this one has an elastic band running right round inside the waistband. Of course, this helps with fitting, as well as adjusting the shorts at the waist. This minor detail contrasts starkly with other tailored shorts I have because if I ever gain weight around my mid section, I can be sure that these shorts will fit because of the elastic band accommodating extra girth. This is not so with the rest of my shorts, as evinced last year, with a pair of above the knee Dockers. After putting on a little weight, I couldn't fasten them anymore. With my weight now in check, I'm eagerly anticipating summer.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Velvet Waistcoat

2011-07-19T23:10:00.000+02:00

Pursuant to Saturday's post about the velvet suit, I promised to showcase the only component of the suit to avoid the travails of the other components. So many things worked out serendipitously with this ensemble. This black pinstripe suit, I haven't worn in a long time. When I put the pants on, the waist fit perfectly, so much so, the use of a belt was precluded.

I took three important lessons away from this exercise. Firstly, a waistcoat layers better with a suit. Better than a v-neck/ crewneck jersey or cardigan. A waistcoat with a lower button stance allows for greater congruency when mixed and matched with a jacket with a similarly lower button stance. It also goes without saying that your tie will have enough space to flourish. Secondly, for a cleaner line between waistcoat and pants, avoid wearing a belt. A belt will break, in an eye sore kind of way, the seamless line running from your waistcoat through your waist through the points of the waistcoat and onto your pants. The 'bulge' caused by the belt will be visible and distracting. Lastly, for an added touch of savvy elegance, when wearing a suit your best option of footwear is closed-laced oxfords or brogues.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

It's Official, The Prodigal Suit Has Come Home

2011-07-16T22:08:00.001+02:00

Finally, I've been reunited with my long lost velvet suit. The story of this suit has more twist and turns than the toilet saga involving the Democratic Alliance and the African National Congress. And a storyline that spans...five years. I feel like using the word 'commissioned', however that's a misnomer as this suit was hastily put together in November 2006, thus negating any positivity the word 'commisioned' is supposed to invoke. When I first had it made, in 2006, the final product was a three-piece velvet suit. Look, if I knew then what I know know about sartorialism then I would've had the jacket constructed in the mould of a dinner jacket. The pants and waistcoat would've come out a lot sleeker and fitted. All three pieces would've been interchangeable, and functional as separates. However, that's not the case. I digress.

When I first realised that I wasn't too happy with the final product, I decided to take it to a seamstress, who had done extensive work for my mother. I went to her with a list of all the things I wanted altered. The pants hemmed and tapered. The jacket buttons reduced from 3 to 2. The jacket was not constructed therefore it wasn't lined and, although padded on the shoulders it was not in proportion. In hind sight I was wrong to think I was the man the first time I wore it. And compliments from people, saying I looked like P-Diddy, didn't help in paring my big head which was gradually expanding.

On October 27, 2007, I took this suit to the aforementioned seamstress for all the alterations I mentioned above. Initially it was meant to be done in two weeks because I needed it for a function I was due to attend. I ended up not getting it back in time, however. I wore something different and, I largely forgot about it. Throughout 2008 anytime I would call the seamstress I would get a response that she was still busy with it. A few months passed. Then one day, on a visit to my parents, I decided to take a turn at the seamtresses shop to enquire about the suit. When I enquired from the sales lady where the suit was and if it was ready, she retorted that the seamstresses business had moved out of the building and that she was now working from home. She proffered her new number and a couple of days later I called to enquire as to the progress of the suit. I was incredulous at what my ears heard.

The seamstress claimed that since she had moved shop from the mall to another area, a block of flats instead, all her work implements and sewing jobs were put away into storage. The problem was that she had misplaced the key to the storage and therefore wouldn't be able to retrieve the suit for me. Unless I came by and helped her to break the door down, and then get my suit. I politely declined this suggestion because it seemed odd and, where do I start in breaking down a door? I remember, I was at work when I made that call. From 2009 through 2010 I never called to enquire about the suit. Nor did I make any trips to the old shop to enquire about the whereabouts of the seamstress. I also misplaced her number, so that put a stop to any attempts at making contact. I somewhat resigned myself to never getting it back, especially because after my sartorial awakening, I knew it had been a bad investment.

So much of this suit evinces my sartorial inexperience and immaturity. This is moreso evident the second time around when I assessed that the suit needed major changes. I mean, for reasons that are beyond me, I cannot fathom why the button holes on the jacket are sown shut. All three of them. Or why I even requested such an alteration, or if I really did request it.

I've been visiting with my parents this week and on a recent jog I went through a section of area that I suspected might be where the seamstress resides. A few months ago I was on the phone with her and she stated that my sister knows where she stays. So, I asked my sister to take me there. When I got there, it was as if she knew I was coming because the suit was out. Dogs hair and all. When I told the shop assistant that I was there to pick up the suit, she couldn't believe it. The suit was checked in before she was employed there.

The only piece to make it out safe before all this business is the waist coat. I've had it since the beginning and apart from a minor alteration, it's gotten some play from time to time. It's going to get some play tomorrow, and I will be sure to showcase it. At this point the jacket cannot be redeemed, except for, maybe, the buttons on the cuff. The pants need a little more work. Taking in the waist, the hem and tapering. And with the right kind of shoes, such as velvet slippers, I'm sure that'll be their saving grace.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Old Habits Die Hard

2011-07-15T16:34:00.000+02:00

If there is one item of clothing I have an intemperance for, it's fleece pants. Yes, fleece pants. Those track suit pants commonly made from cotton, that come in a two piece comprising a bottom and a top. In the sporting fraternity they are ubiquitous, and the standard colour they are mass produced in is grey. However they are also produced in a plethora of colours and, in equally the same amount of fabrics and materials. What prompted this posit, however, is the fact that I have been thinking about stylishly and aesthetically incorporating fleece pants into casual wear. For now I have it in theory. I hope next autumn and winter I can bring it to life. Recently, I 'm spending a lot of time at home and I find that I hardly get out. And if I do get out, it's to hang up clothes on the washing line or to buy bread or other daily dietary staples. And I do all this in, mostly, fleece pants, a t-shirt and some slides or old driving mocs that have supplanted my fluffy, old slippers as house shoes. Sometimes this combination doesn't make for a stylish appearance, which is why I think that these two pieces of casual knitwear befit the laid back milieu I currently find myself in and, am trying to project.

This wool/ cashmere blend, cable-knit hoodie by Energie, is exactly what I'm talking about. For me, it is the perfect complement to fleece pants in black or charcoal and a v-neck t-shirt. The cardinal rule, with this kind of ensemble, is fit. As much as baggy fleece pants and a hoody have been legally married for the longest time, it would behoove any gent who strays into such sartorial territory, to adhere to the right fit and proportion. Believe me, a pair of fitted fleece pants and a hoody works. I've thought about the right shoe for this ensemble and, I can only focus on a pair of boat shoes. In suede, no less. Boat shoes, in a bright hue, would bring a dash of sobriety to an otherwise "sloppy" presentation.

This cable knit, shawl collar cardigan by GANT, espouses exactly the same characteristics regarding the cable knit hoody. Navy is a colour that opens one up to a plethora of colour schemes and combinations, and therefore, a stylish presentation would not be a hurdle. A navy on navy combination tempered with a grey t-shirt and some boat shoes. Remember this combination is kept within the bounds of laid-back Sunday newspaper reading, when one is lounging around the house.

I feel that before this explication I should've prefaced this post with a caveat, that: this post is mainly a sporty one and therefore is not everyone's cup of tea. I say this because my brother, our circle of friends and sporting activity buddies, all believe in the importance of fleece pants as part of our ever evolving wardrobes. Whenever we come from basketball pickup games or practice, after a shower the obligatory dress code is a t-shirt, sneakers and fleece pants. When it comes to fleece pants each and everyone of us is given to excess.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Why Are You So Dressed Up?

2011-07-07T23:03:00.000+02:00

I encountered this question, from my wife, for the third time today on our way to see a medical practitioner. My first two encounters when people posed this question was a few months ago on another visit to a medical practitioner. First my wife’s sister thought I’d been to a job interview and then, incredulously, the doctor himself, wondered why I was so dressed up. Now, I don’t want to get sucked into a vortex of an interminable argument because, on the surface, dressing up is superficial and subjective. Therefore people can invariably argue for and against the topic everyday, all day.

My response to this question is a question in itself, “why not get dressed up?” As superficial and subjective dressing up can be, there is no doubt that it has a purpose in today’s society. People’s perception is important in this process because it has a direct effect on how you perceive yourself. And how you perceive yourself has a direct relation on how you interact with other people. I try my best to dress well whenever I go out in public, even if I’m just going to my local mall. It fuels my confidence and energy levels. I am most proud of people who dress well and, in the face of multitudinous stares, proceed to eschew any vainglorious display of their attire. In other words, put it on, and forget about it.

I unequivocally challenge anyone that pays scant regard to their appearance and the way they dress, to try dressing up, even if it’s for one day. Either way your appearance will redound.

C.R.E.A.M.

2011-06-30T23:47:00.000+02:00

Cashmere Rules Everything Around Me. Not quite. I just saw it apt to title this post as above because I wanted to write a little about cashmere. At first sight, even looking at the above image, one can tell that cashmere is not your ordinary, run-of-the-mill fabric. It is aesthetically pleasing and soft to the touch. Not even silk, virgin wool, or the most technologically innovattive man-made yarns come close to the texture of the hair from the Kashmir goat. The animal largely found in China, Mongolia and Pakistan, is sheared just once a year. The strands are sorted, and the fluffiest fibres are cleaned spun into yarn.

As with anything , the scarcer the product, the more finances required to acquire it. But even with its hefty proce tag, cashmere is attractive and addictive. Therefore you can start small; with cashmere/ cotton blend socks and cashmere blend skullies. Mittens and scarves form the middle order in terms of affordability. The high end/ top order is occupied by cashmere blankets and bathrobes, which can set you back a ton. But then a simple touch to the skin and you'll immediately know why this wool's really the G.O.A.T.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Power Forward Fashion

2011-06-22T15:58:00.001+02:00

I guess I was wrong, Sports Illustrated online do know a little something something about well dressed/ fashionable NBA players. This video is a definite nod to them. New York Knicks power forward, Amar'e Stoudemire, takes ABC News, John Berman, on a fashion drive through his eyes. I am intrigued by, what it seems, is his knowledge of fashion and men's style. The evidence, even though aided by a stylist, is in the clothes that he wears during the clip. Note the still under construction black suit. The shirt, pants, sneakers combination in the final sequence says it all, he's a tall guy but he pays attention to fit. His assertion, however, that Dwyane Wade is the best dressed player in the NBA is still flawed. Conversely, for the time that I have been "following" Amare, I can safely say that his style, appearance and presentation are fairly consistent. The rest of the league would do good by looking to him as an example of how to dress an athlete. As a big man.

The Slim Messenger Bag

2011-06-21T23:34:00.000+02:00

Making my way around my residential area yesterday, I realised how much I am need of a slim, portable but stylish messenger bag. Something in the same vein as the Salvatore Ferragamo joint above. It looks durable, easy to carry and functional. I am a strong advocate of functionality; any case I carry has to fulfil a specific function. In my case I was running errands and the draw-string satchel I was carrying defied all the factors I listed above. It also failed horribly in the looks department. Anything you get as a freebie from a service station should never be considered for use outside your place of abode. What I like most about this particular messenger bag is that it is slim and its vertically rectangular shape is a deviation from the regular messenger bags out there. It's lightweight construction definitely precludes anything heavy or bulky. In my case I would've filled it with writing instruments, a writing pad, money and a few items I purchased. Wearing it over the shoulder and across the chest, for such a petite bag, wouldn't be jarring either.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Casual Winter Knitwear

2011-06-11T15:27:00.000+02:00

Winter in Durban requires minimal layering. Normally a sweater, a trench or pea coat do the job. Keeping the cold out doesn’t require layers upon layers of garments – we Durbanites know that, even though at times we tend to dress inappropriately for the weather. I can suggest three light weight pieces of knitwear that will ensure comfort, warmth and a stylish appearance.

A v-neck sweater is your first option. It forms part of the casual man’s knitwear arsenal. You can’t go wrong here. Whether over dress pants or jeans, in the right combination, a v-neck can never look incongruous. I prefer it in a casual way, with chinos, a button-down shirt and open-laced bluchers. To transition to night time, I would recommend a tie of slim proportions. Even better, a knit tie, would fit in perfectly because of its style and slimming qualities. You get two types of v-neck sweaters; a high v-neck and a low v-neck sweater. They of course work differently. A low accommodates a tie more easily as opposed to a high.

This year my favourite piece of knitwear is, without a doubt, a crewneck sweater -round neck sweater to some. It serves warmth to the highest degree very well. At times I feel like gentlemen resort to the crewneck sweater because it requires less dressing up than a v-neck sweater. I’m not a proponent of a crewneck with a shirt. For me, it results in a busy and congested neck. A crewneck sweater is a casual piece I wouldn’t recommend with a tie as well. With slim fitting chinos, jeans or dress pants, a balance can be achieved. On a wet day I relish the combination of a crewneck sweater and a mackintosh coat.

Post Y2K has seen the resurgence of the cardigan as a wardrobe staple in menswear. Cardigans have been back in a big way, encompassing a plethora of designs, patterns, fabrics and textures. A cardigan goes both ways; casual and dressy. Wool pants, a plaid shirt and longwing bluchers, that’s how casual goes. Dressy doesn’t require much except for a tie, although it doesn’t end there, as a cardigan can also be layered with a suit as well.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Italian Shoe Collection

2011-06-06T07:11:00.000+02:00

With South Africa playing catch up to some parts of the world in aspects such as fashion, most especially, it appears that we have finally caught up with all the stylish gentlemen in the world. Courtesy of one of S.A's largest clothing retailers; Edgars brings us the Italian Shoe Collection. Described as 'encapsulating the perfect combination of Italian craftmanship, premium leathers and distinctive contemporary,' this collection is definitely for the discerning gent, moreover it is a smorgasbord of designs that are guaranteed to wet your sartorial appetites.

I am particularly excited by the light brown double monk strap, a shoe for a distinguished gentleman, that raises the style stakes and causes others to pay attention. The chocolate brown oxford is also a favourite. The driving mocassin with tassels is definitely something new on our shores. For years I have observed how most shoes of this kind were plain with no decorations. Even the driving mocs I've had were of the same plain design. It is therefore with intrigue that I relish the arrival of a different kind of driver. The above image is but a microcosm of the whole collection. Since Edgars is also affordable, you can expect to pay between R999 - R2000, for a pair.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Velaphi

2011-05-24T09:03:00.000+02:00

Recently I have noticed how South African television is replete with sartorial aberration. The continuum, in post Apartheid South Africa, for sartorialism seems to have gone from bad to worse. I have been able to make this observation because daytime TV has been showing pre-1994 comedies and dramas. Our male actors and television personalities are not as well dressed as their counterparts of old. I don’t know where it all changed however I can unequivocally state that there is a distinct difference in costume and wardrobe arrangements. I watch contemporary TV shows and I am uninspired. The only consistency is in how dull and ill-fitting the wardrobe is. The sartorially bright moments, which are far and few in between, are totally eclipsed by senseless monochromatic looks, 100% polyester jackets with bellows pockets and hooded waistcoats. I’ve heard time and again how what you see at fashion shows can’t be directly transferred to reality, what I see on S.A. TV though seems to tell me otherwise. Even the so-called lifestyle shows are suspect, in that they hide behind watered down casual looks that don’t stimulate the mind and are always bland.

Velaphi is an early 90s South African comedy starring Ray Ntlokwana, as Velaphi, who plays the part of a messenger for a print and ad company. Youthful ignorance would’ve blinded me to the stylish appearance of the actors, however ( and recently so) my sartorial curiosity was aroused when I noticed how well coordinated the wardrobe and costume were. Formal and casual outfits well placed and represented.

In this scene Vusi Thanda is dressed in a brown tweed herringbone jacket, white shirt, patterned navy blue bow tie, black pants and under the jacket, holding up the his pants a pair of braces. Stylish and sartorial correctness couldn’t be more apt. On the casual side the combination of a leather jacket, plaid shirt and knit tie is well represented. You’d have to see it for yourself to believe me, but I’m sure these images prove me right. A glimmer of hope, however, is offered by the news anchors on Etv.

The Anatomy Of A Shoe

2011-05-23T20:53:00.000+02:00

The great thing about style is that it can be applied in a practical way. What you learn from a plethora of style guides can be directly transferred and translated into your own interpretation of style. There is no room for erudition in matters of style. It goes without saying then that part of the learning process is in knowing the exact names of things, what they are and their function. Which brings us to the anatomy of a shoe.

Nothing goes a long way in illustrating a point than illustrations. I have always been somewhat confused by the open and closed lacing in shoes, until I came across an article on Style Forum addressing: the leather used in the various methods of shoe construction, welted shoes, Blake construction, reverse welts, etc. The article is concise and comprehensive. I learnt a lot from it, and you can too.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Unlikely Combination

2011-05-19T21:03:00.000+02:00

The combination of a plaid shirt and a tie is not exactly new, however the never ending styles that the combination can be executed is what resonates with me. A plaid shirt has always been casual and laid back for me, never did it occur that a plaid shirt can be dressed up, in both a casual and formal way. As long as the execution is right then a stylish appearance is guaranteed. I'm very much from the old school when it comes to men's style; I don't do the open collar, loose tie look. If a shirt collar is rigid and crisp, a tie will always be complementary. Sure, gingham check with a tie works wonders. It's become somewhat perfunctory, if you will. Now, a plaid shirt and a tie? You're definitely stepping into quirky territory and it is important to strike a balance that highlights your look in the right way.

A plaid shirt is always going to be bold. It stands out and if it's going to be paired with a tie, then the tie must be simple and dark, so as to tone down the bold colour of the shirt. The combination works in a complementary way if the shirt and tie have at least one of the same colour.

The efficacy of some of these combinations is in how the rest of one's outfit is executed. Therefore, jeans, a cardigan or a v-neck jersey will be appropriate at times. When dressing it up then a sports jacket and chinos will be the ultimate complement. It even works with a suit because the only out of sorts piece is the plaid shirt. With endless possibilities, however, the perfect execution will most definitely redound.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

With The Cap To Match

2011-05-18T00:00:00.026+02:00

I'm not a hat person, and I really can't explain my aversion to adorning one. What I can say, however, is that nothing distinguishes a man than a stylish approach to wearing a hat. It gets even better. You can wear hats according to the season and the weather because there are different styles in different materials and fabrics. I remember seeing a spread in GQ magazine featuring flat caps in seersucker, which would be summer perfect. Since it is autumn in South Africa, I found it important to talk about a few caps that would be apt for this weather and the mild winters. This has been a lesson for me, as well, because although I could tell the difference between some of these caps, I didn't know their exact names. Let's start with the Flat cap, also known as a driving cap.

Tweed Herringbone flat cap

A flat cap is characterised by a soft, round brim in the front. Although it is recommended for casual wear, there are those who go their own way and wear it with formal wear. Although not advisable I have seen some gentlemen making it work. And although the flat cap pictured above is rather chunky, in a heavy herringbone, they are also available in wool and a lot slimmer and sleeker. This cap is also known for its warmth, thus becoming a shield against cold and wet weather.

Newsboy cap

Stokley Williams wore a newsboy cap, also known as a gatsby or what I like referring it to as; an Eight Panel, in the 'Someone to Love' video. And Shawn Stockman of Boyz II Men fame wore one in the video for 'On Bended Knee', with the button attaching the front to the brim undone. I prefer the name Eight Panel because it is self explanatory; the top of the cap is divided into eight panels which converge at the centre of the cap, held together by a button. This is also a casual cap, which is worn a lot in certain subcultures; hip hop being one of them. Just the other day Raekwon the Chef was wearing an Eight Panel, rather appropriately, on the Monique Show.

What I have found in my research on these caps is that the one cap advocated by most for formal wear is the Ascot cap.

Ascot Cap

The Ascot cap, although similar to the flat cap, is a hard men's cap distinguishable by its hardness and rounded shape. It is typically made of felt or wool. In two columns I read I found that an ascot cap made in felt is recommended for formal wear because it is modern and blends in with the modern aesthetic of formal wear. With an ascot cap you look a lot less than a farmer in the city and more like a modern man adhering to stylish sensibilities.

Another version of the flat cap I have come across is one with air vents on the sides just above the ears. I doubt it is still in production because the images I have of this cap are "stills" from a popular South African comedy from the early 90s titled 'Velaphi'.

I wouldn't rush to call them air vents because they are a derivative of a certain function. This cap has adjustable side tabs which allow for fitting on different size and shaped heads. The vents come about because the cap is either tightened or loosened according to the wearers preference.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Herringbone, Brown Herringbone

2011-05-09T21:01:00.000+02:00

Sometime ago I was thinking to myself that one of the best style guides a man can employ is nature. Yes, nature. The flora and fauna are a guideline how we should dress, especially the colour schemes we can utilise. The seasons, however, are fundamental. The seasons also tell us how light or heavy we should go. Therefore with the advent of autumn it goes without saying that as the leaves lose their green, leafy lustre a wardrobe change is also important. This, then, couldn't be a better time to embrace a herringbone blazer. A brown one to be exact. I used to hear things such as 'brown is a manifestation of fleshly desires', I don't believe that no more. I can't think of a more appropriate and resplendent colour than brown.

This colour and pattern lends itself to so many working and complementary combinations. Tweed herringbone in brown coupled with velvet, corduroy and wool, these combinations work mellifluously. In this instance your whole outfit is worked around the jacket. A stylish brown herringbone jacket is a men's professional or formal wardrobe essential. This jacket would look smart at work or a special occasion. It is more than a mere additioin; it is also a definite upgrade.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Great White Hype

2011-05-03T15:13:00.000+02:00

Style and the man can sometimes be a daunting task, filled with both enthusiasm and apprehension. Colours, shades, textures, patterns, fabrics. These can all run on a man and send him into a state of flummox. To ease your transition into a stylish disposition a solid white shirt is always a good start. And it doesn't get anymore easier, clearer and solid than that. After all, the common denominator in most school uniforms is a white shirt.

A white shirt is the ultimate blank canvas on which to apply to your daily dressing and sartorial experiments. You can definitely wear a white shirt everyday of the week with different outfits and people will or will not notice. Notice how well coordinated and complementary a white shirt can be. It doesn't get any simpler. Think of how white works with other colours, shades and hues. This also applies to texture, fabrics and patterns. A white shirt will always be the central or underlying piece that holds everything together.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

The Blind Leading The Blind

2011-04-09T15:05:00.000+02:00

So, Sports Illustrated recently ran a poll with a number of NBA players on who amongst their peers is the most stylish. I wasn't surprised by some of the choices, but c'mon...what did Jarrett Jack do to be considered stylish by his peers? I was incredulous. The last people you want to adjudicate on style matters are sports journalist. The very last people, though, who you want to poll on style matters are professional basketball players. The two just don't mix. Below is a list of the top 15, from lowest to highest:

Jarett Jack

Derek Fisher

Amar'e Stoudemire

Dwight Howard

Steve Nash

Zaza Pachulia

Keyon Dooling

Ray Allen

Juwan Howard

Kevin Garnett

Carmelo Anthony

Chris Paul

Lebron James

Kobe Bryant

Dwayne Wade

Wow. No Chrish Bosh. No James Harden. No Wesley Johnson. These guys are notable dressers in the NBA and I have seen some of them in pictures. This list is highly flawed, which is why I titled it as 'the blind leading the blind'. The league is full of so many bad dressers, they can never be relied upon to give any kind of view or opinion on others they deem to be well dressed.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.